H Rated Tires: Opinions, Experiences, Advice, Please

[Mike Cash]

I'm getting to the point where I need to change my front tire (the rear can go a bit longer) and to be perfectly frank, money (or the lack thereof) is a major concern at present.

By going with an H rated tire instead of the W rated tires that come with the bike, I can effectively cut the cost of tire replacement in half. In my case, that would be the difference between being able to change tires at all or continuing on my worn-out tires until the air is showing through.

I am looking at changing to the IRC RX-02. The same size is available in a front tire, but for the rear I would have to go with a 150/70-17 M/C 69H instead of the 160/60 that is standard. A look at the compatibility chart (PDF) indicates that while the tire is mostly suited to 250cc and 400cc bikes, there are several larger-sized bikes which accept them. The tires' load capacities are identical to the OEM tires, with only the speed rating being lower (but still way the heck faster than anything I'll ever approach). The sidewalls have a "B" rating, which I recall Beemerphile saying he always makes sure of when choosing tires, so I feel confident on at least that small bit.

Does anyone have any experience riding on H rated tires on the NC700? Is there a noticeable difference in handling or performance? Would you go with them again or were you glad to get them off the bike and back on W rated tires again? While I would dearly love to plunk down for a set of PR3s, that just ain't happening any time soon. Certainly not within the remaining life of the tires I currently have mounted. My riding is probably about 70% commuting and the rest is riding around in the mountains at stodgy old man speeds, especially through the corners. I do very little expressway riding and am seldom above 80km/h. If the handling in corners is going to turn to mush, I don't want them, but if they'll see me through for a few months and have decent handling given my riding style and usage, they would sure help me over a rough spot.

 

[dramd]

Anytime your down to the wear markers its considered dangerous, and that's long before any cord is showing. So I would think getting fresh rubber on now, if your not doing any highway, would be better than continuing to wear out your faster speed rated tires.

Edit: Why don't you look at the full set Jay posted up for 179?

 

[Mike Cash]

Anytime your down to the wear markers its considered dangerous, and that's long before any cord is showing. So I would think getting fresh rubber on now, if your not doing any highway, would be better than continuing to wear out your faster speed rated tires.

Edit: Why don't you look at the full set Jay posted up for 179?

By the time I paid international shipping and irked my shop guys by bringing in tires not purchased from them I wouldn't be any better off.

 

[dramd]

I see, so how much in American do they want for the oem tires?

 

[Mike Cash]

I see, so how much in American do they want for the oem tires?

A set of tires with the W (or higher) speed rating such as are OEM run in the neighborhood of $450, give or take a bit depending on the brand/model. H rated tires are about half that.

 

[tew47]

This is the first bike that I have ever owned that has had anything but H rated tires. I am looking for a H rated tire also. Check out Michlein Commander 2's. I am interested in mileage at my age because I am not going fast enough to drag my knees or lean that far over.

 

[Beemerphile]

As long as the load range is adequate and you stay under the continuous speed rating you will be fine, unless you are hampered by legal requirements to run OEM sizes and ratings. In your position, I would definitely give them a roll.

My comment on the B rating was strictly in reference to B rated Metzelers Marathons, which are the high load rating bias ply version of the tires that were OEM on the BMW K1200LT. It was not a general statement of preference. If the IRC you are considering is a bias ply construction, then some "experts" are going to line up against it as negatively affecting the handling of the bike - especially if mixed. Funny that several bikes come from the factory with mixed bias and radial tires. Conservatively ridden, I do not think you will notice it.

Honda went way over board with the speed rating of the NC's tires. We all know it will not do 149 mph dropped from a space capsule.

 

[Fuzzy]

Speed rating is not a handling issue but would do some homework on handling characteristics of tires you are considering. My memories of driving in Japan are that my 69 Corolla saw a fast enough speed limit to use 4th gear.

 

[Oldenuf]

I would use caution if the "H" rating is for a bias ply. and you would be mixing a bias ply with a radial.

Art

 

[Beemerphile]

I would use caution if the "H" rating is for a bias ply. and you would be mixing a bias ply with a radial.

Art

H rating has nothing to do with radial or bias construction. H rating is 130 mph speed rating, which is of course more than adequate. As far as mixing or replacing radials with bias ply, yes caution should be exercised. However, the 865cc T100, Bonnevilles and Thruxtons used to come from the factory with an ME33 or Lasertec bias ply front and an MEZ2 radial rear. Several cruiser bikes are the same way. If you change over, you need to make sure that the rim widths are proper for the tires you plan to run as bias ply tires tend to use narrower rims than radials.

 

[dduelin]

I would have no problem running H rated tires on the NC700X if necessary but I wouldn't want to change to a narrower & taller aspect ratio 150/70 rear. Consider Shinko 009s if your shop in town can order them. I know people that run Shinkos on the ST1300 and they are just fine as an economical choice and you can get them in the OEM size and weight ratings.

 

[Mike Cash]

Thanks, everyone, for the valuable feedback. It is very helpful.

What would be the downside of mounting a 150/70 versus a 160/60? I would expect some minor difference, but nothing I couldn't adjust to. That's thinking based on ignorance, so if somebody could tell me what the actual difference in handling would be I would very much appreciate it.

 

[bamamate]

If I did the math correct, the 150/70 will be a taller tire with taller sidewalls. Tall sidewalls usually means softer ride and a little more squirm in the curves. I say usually because it also depends on how the tire is designed. The 150/70 tire could have been designed with a stiffer sidewall. In reality whenever you get new tires you should take it easy to begin with and give yourself a little time to learn the new tires and you will adapt to how they handle and life will be good.

 

[Chris]

As long as you don't have a tight fitting hugger the 170/50 will probably fit without problems. According to a tire size calculator it'll be about 0.7" bigger in diameter than a 160/60 R17 but it will be slightly narrower (5.9" versus 6.3") and the sidewall will be 4.1" versus 3.8".

Tire Size Comparison

As somebody already mentioned though - best check that you're not obliged to use factory spec tyres by law. There are several countries in Europe where you must use the specific dimensions mentioned on the bike's registration papers or else you'll get booked. I don't know if that's the case in Japan - but their technical rules always were very tight so it might be an issue for you there.

I've not got experience on the NC but in the past I've used tyres with a similar difference from the standard and not found any noticeable ride or handling issues.

 

[mrdcmills]

An "H"rating should be adequate. Mine will only pull about 105. (not verified by GPS) Have you checked Ebay. They aren't that tough to install at home.

 

[Mike Cash]

An "H"rating should be adequate. Mine will only pull about 105. (not verified by GPS) Have you checked Ebay. They aren't that tough to install at home.

My "garage" is my apartment parking lot, my tools are what was in the frunk when I bought the bike, and I don't have a center stand.

What sort of tools and equipment would I be looking at for pulling both wheels (even one at a time), removing/mounting tires, and balancing them? At about forty bucks per tire mounting price here and one tire change a year, how many years would it take to recoup the investment?

Then I'd have to find some way of dumping the old tires too....

 

[Oldenuf]

If it were me I would not want to do a first time tire change in a parking lot. Just to many small items that you would need and unexpected things that come up. Spend the money and find a dealer, mechanic you trust to do good work.

Art

 

[Mike Cash]

If it were me I would not want to do a first time tire change in a parking lot. Just to many small items that you would need and unexpected things that come up. Spend the money and find a dealer, mechanic you trust to do good work.

Art

Thanks, I agree. But this about being broke, not tight-fisted.

 

[Oldenuf]

There are just a bunch of things that can be difficult or go easy, starting with breaking the bead off the rim on the worn out tire. I like to lay down 4 or more pieces of 2x4, 8 inches long wood and lay the rim on these to get it off the floor and protect the rim and brake disk. Remove the valve core. I begin with just putting pressure with my boot heels, I weigh about 210 lbs., on the tire edges and working it hoping to break it off the rim. If I'm lucky it will come off the rim. Do this to both sides. If it will not come off the rim, my next resort is to place it under a truck bumper and use a small jack and various wood block to put more pressure on the tire, and use some WD-40 between the exposed rim and tire. This just goes on and on, probable best to go to you-tube and google "changing a tire, with hand tools.

I change all my tires and do it with hand tools, but I've done a bunch, and watched old mechanics do this in years past. It can be done with not a big investment. Just a couple good tire irons, some pieces plastic cut from a container to work as tire iron to rim protectors, some tire mounting lube, soapy water or WD-40, and a hand tire pump. But there are usually tricks to making things easier and the norm is things never just go nice and easy. I've actually found the wider rims easier to mount tires on, but sometimes a real bear to break the bead on.

And then it is probably good to check for wheel "balance". This can be done in a number of ways.

Art

 

[Mike Cash]

Thanks very much, Art. I find that the price difference between riding the bike in for a tire change and pulling the wheels and taking them in for a change would result in a savings that would equal the cost of a center stand. I have just received the service manual johnakey introduced us from eBay and believe I can handle wheel removal and replacement on my own, so I think I may go that route.