How Far Off Pavement Do You Take Your NC700X?

[Jarrett]

I know its a street bike in adventure clothing, but I'm wondering just how far off pavement this thing will go.

If you don't mind, please post your off pavement/off road experiences with the NC700X.

Also, were there certain mods you did to the bike before taking it off pavement to be safe?

Pics too if you've got them just to see what sort of terrain we are talking about.

 

[670cc]

Two track gravel roads on 80/20 tires are easy. When you start rolling over rocks sticking 6 inches out of the road you're reaching the limit.

If you get in mud, get the hell out fast and don’t use a rear hugger (it will jam up with mud). The front fender will also be a problem. You may cook your clutch(es) trying to escape the mud.

A good rear shock helps. The RaceTech emulators up front help but don’t go with RaceTech springs because even the lightest ones they sell are pretty stiff and limit travel for rough terrain, and make for a bone jarring ride. I’ve never dropped my NC but crash bars and hand guards would be a good idea.

The 17 inch front wheel is a problem when the going gets rough. There’s not much you can do about that.

I had to ride several miles steep downhill on gravel once, and with limited traction, had to use the rear brake a lot to stay in control. I stopped a couple times to let the rear disk cool, due to the weight of the bike.

I’ve given up converting the NC to do much more than groomed gravel roads and instead bought a dual sport.

 

[dduelin]

On hard pack dirt, marl, and gravel roads like forest service roads and fire roads it goes anywhere. I've been 40 miles in the woods on my NCs. Aside from the original 90/10 stock tires I run 100% street tires. I'm on the street 97% of the time and have no use for more dirt oriented rubber. The most challenging times have been wet muddy roads. Clay gets super slick. These are from NC, WV, TN and my home state of FL.

 

[Hank]

I agree. Light gravel, hard packed dirt, grass, etc are ok. Sand, mud, loose rock - turn around.

 

[rippin209]

The sand, mud and lose rock have been done with videos to prove it, doesn't look fun for the rider or motorcycle but still doable

 

[serge]

I did Chloride Cliff ride in Death Valley on NC during ADV event - I dropped it once there, it was Ok, though I was going slower than KLR and KTMs
got my bash plate banged quite often there .. washboard on stock NC are rather uncomfortable . I did drop the pressure to ~25 psi, i think

 

[serge]

also I found that that my Madstud windshield was vibrating too much and was coming uncomfortably close to my throat while standing on uphill rides ..
So i took it off for the next day ride in Titus Canyon. I could use fresher more offroad -oriented tires as you can tell... I was surprised I was the only one on NC among ~100 riders showed up there this year..

 

[StratTuner]

You may cook your clutch(es) trying to escape the mud.

Yep. I've done that in the California hills...steep dirt road, fully loaded, burned out the clutch at 80,000 miles.

It's really put me off going on any dirt road anymore.... I'll do it if it's a groomed, packed, dirt road, but that's my limit.

Still ... 95% of the "adventures" I have take place on paved roads and packed dirt, so the NC is just the right ride for my adventuring.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

If your planning to do some off pavement exploring it's best done on a lighter more capable bike. You definitely can use the NC in loose rock, mud and steep hills but your not going to enjoy yourself and you could possibly hurt the bike or yourself. I bought a dedicated off road dual sport for my off road adventures. I got a great deal on a KLX250S, I stalled a 351 BB kit, rejetted, put on a KX300 exhaust and some trials tires and now it's a blast off road.

 

[Jarrett]

Yep. I've done that in the California hills...steep dirt road, fully loaded, burned out the clutch at 80,000 miles.

What happened exactly? You did this ride at 80k and clutch died in the middle of it?

 

[StratTuner]

What happened exactly? You did this ride at 80k and clutch died in the middle of it?

The hills are steep and sections are concrete and sections are soft dirt.

I was easing up the dirt using the clutch to moderate speed. I stopped to decide which line to take, revved the engine, let the clutch out.... and NOTHING happened. NO FORWARD MOTION!

I let the bike coast backward and found the clutch would help the bike go forward ONLY when under very little stress...
Riding the hills back into Santa Maria was an exercise in gaining momentum downhill so I could make it to the top of the next hill...

I had babied that clutch its whole life...soooo now I replace the clutch every 50K no matter what.

 

[Edgett]

I had babied that clutch its whole life...soooo now I replace the clutch every 50K no matter what.[/QUOTE]

I guess I'd be quite happy if my clutch lasts 50k, but then again for those occasional jack-rabbit starts from a light, I don't mind abusing it just a little. OTOH, I've learned you can make unloaded 4-5 and 5-6 shifts quite easily with no clutch and do my best to rev-match on downshifts. I really enjoy this bike!

 

[showkey]

There is no reason the NC clutch should not go 80-100k with no concerns.........with reasonable care.

When a clutch is near its end of life........one key indicator is frequent need to adjust clutch cable free play.

 

[Wildfire]

The thought of taking the NC into the bush to find good mushroom patches has me thinking of getting a lighter dual-sport.

Good aggressive tires aired down makes a big difference in loose gravel and light mud, but a light dirt bike it is not.

 

[rippin209]

There is no reason the NC clutch should not go 80-100k with no concerns.........with reasonable care.

When a clutch is near its end of life........one key indicator is frequent need to adjust clutch cable free play.

I'm at 76,000 + I've adjusted mine once, maybe twice but that was awhile a ago.

Having said that if I was going to go on a trip to Alaska or somewhere else remote I'd install new throttle, clutch cable, new clutch, brake pads, tires and air filter and those are just what comes to mind right now. I've gotten plenty of miles out of the current parts and wouldn't want them falling in the boonies. I'd also ride 1,000-3,000 miles with the new parts, just to be sure (easy enough, my commute is 500-650 miles a week)

 

[rippin209]

I had babied that clutch its whole life...soooo now I replace the clutch every 50K no matter what.

I guess I'd be quite happy if my clutch lasts 50k, but then again for those occasional jack-rabbit starts from a light, I don't mind abusing it just a little. OTOH, I've learned you can make unloaded 4-5 and 5-6 shifts quite easily with no clutch and do my best to rev-match on downshifts. I really enjoy this bike![/QUOTE]I just started doing that bump gear shift, with practice you can get it pretty smooth, I'm down to 3/4/5/6 up and down (down it's easier) I think I'm riding to quick to practice going first to second or even second to third, if I went slower it should be entirely possible

 

[dduelin]

It's not the momentary use of the clutch shifting between gears that typically wears them out. Wear and/or heat glazing typically comes from long periods of slipping the clutch in the friction zone, misadjusted clutches that never fully engage, and the use of oils not suited for wet oil-bath clutches.

 

[StratTuner]

It's not the momentary use of the clutch shifting between gears that typically wears them out. Wear and/or heat glazing typically comes from long periods of slipping the clutch in the friction zone, misadjusted clutches that never fully engage, and the use of oils not suited for wet oil-bath clutches.

Guilty. Slipping the clutch to ease up steep hills killed mine.

 

[mahbin]

I never go off road, ever!

 

[showkey]

I'm at 76,000 + I've adjusted mine once, maybe twice but that was awhile a ago.

Having said that if I was going to go on a trip to Alaska or somewhere else remote I'd install new throttle, clutch cable, new clutch, brake pads, tires and air filter and those are just what comes to mind right now. I've gotten plenty of miles out of the current parts and wouldn't want them falling in the boonies. I'd also ride 1,000-3,000 miles with the new parts, just to be sure (easy enough, my commute is 500-650 miles a week)

Agree.......prevention is far easier compared to break downs on a trip...........I had a Transalp with 62,000 miles, in preparation for trip around the Great Lakes. I pulled the clutch and found almost no measureable wear on the friction or metal plates. Having prepurchased the parts I replaced them ( friction metal and springs) but they could have gone another 40k with no problem. I had purchased the bike used and the prior use was unknown.

Honda’s are also well known for long lasting cables with their coated cable liners and low friction surfacing.