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Lowering NC700X on front forks - how-to with pictures

tront

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Hey everybody!! I'm a new rider, the NC700x is my first bike, my fourth Honda, and I'm feeling it really hard. My problem is that I'm 5' 5" and it was really too tall for me to put both feet down, a tough problem to have as I have a gravel driveway that requires a significant amount of traction.

With the help of a mechanically-minded friend I lowered the front of the bike on the front forks by an inch, and it's improved my ride dramatically, I wanted to share my experience here. Of course, you can perform this mod at your own risk, but I've been riding with it for 2 days and no problems yet.

I'm writing this from an absolute beginner's perspective.

Please note all pictures are post-mod.

You will need:

Phillips screwdriver
Allen wrenches
Socket wrench
A strong friend
Tape measure
(keep in mind all fixtures on the NC700x are metric)

1) Remove the upper fairing and plastic casing around the ignition. This will allow you to access the upper screws. This is pretty straightforward, but make sure to organize all the screws / clips to remember where they are for later. Check on page 71 of your owner's manual for instructions on how to remove / re-insert clips.

2) Loosen, but don't totally unscrew, the large bolts underneath the front of the bike above the wheel, one bolt on each fork.

nc700x-low-front-screw.jpg

3) With your strong friend straddling the bike and holding up the handlebars as much as possible, carefully unscrew the bolts around the top of the forks. BE CAREFUL because if the handlebars are not supported the bike front will fall down the forks from lack of tension.

Try to unscrew them - both left and right forks - evenly. You'll need to turn your handlebars to get access to both of them.

nc700x-high-front-screw.jpg

Once they are sufficiently loose, the front of the bike will raise and lower pretty easily with your strong friend on the handlebars.

My dealer said not to lower it more than 1", so that's what I did: lowered the bike until one inch of the fork is sticking up through the frame.

4) Use the tape measure to ensure the forks are even on both sides, and tighten up the top screws good and tight.

5) Tighten up the bottom screws nice and tight.

6) Replace ignition casing and fairing.

That's it!! Here's the finished product.

nc700x-lower.jpg

It's amazing how much this small adjustment helped my ride. Things are just easier now for anything that involves low-speed maneuvering / walking. I'm hoping to get a rear lowering kit as well, and some taller-soled boots, to make things totally low and comfortable for my short frame.

Good luck!! NC700X 4 LYFE

tront
 
You will need:

Phillips screwdriver
Allen wrenches
Socket wrench
A strong friend
Tape measure
(keep in mind all fixtures on the NC700x are metric)
TORQUE WRENCH
Center stand would be helpful to get the front wheel off the ground


4) Use the tape measure to ensure the forks are even on both sides, and tighten up the top screws good and tight. There is a reason Honda specifies a torque on these bolts not good and tight. Please find this torque and set the bolts to the proper torque. Too tight is not always a good thing.

5) Tighten up the bottom screws nice and tight. Again torqued for a reason
 
Thanks GPD. What is the disadvantage to over-tightening? My dealer didn't seem to think that it would be a problem for me, even as a newbie, to do this myself.
 
Hi Tront
Welcome to the forum and thanks for being so helpful in your first post already.
:D

Luckily i do not need to lower my bike although I am also of similar tallness (1.68m). :p
I am used to tiptoeing etc.
Welcome and hope to read more of your posts soon.
~Joe
 
Thanks GPD. What is the disadvantage to over-tightening? My dealer didn't seem to think that it would be a problem for me, even as a newbie, to do this myself.

Things break when over-stressed (over tightened). like nuts, threads, bolts...etc.
Even a hairline crack can prove deadly under certain extreme conditions, like emergency braking. Take care.
 
Thanks happy, I'll take it into a shop ASAP to have the torque checked. Is there a reference manual somewhere I can find specific suggested torques for each point on the bike?

I've also just found a US manufacturer for rear lowering links, available 9/4:

Kouba Link

For lowering 1 3/8". Will look into that.

Again, thanks!
 
Thanks GPD. What is the disadvantage to over-tightening? My dealer didn't seem to think that it would be a problem for me, even as a newbie, to do this myself.

gpd211 is correct, the torque matters. Most damage to motorcycles by new mechanics is a result of improper fastener torque. Most often it is too much, rather than too little. The old "Air Force Spec" of all the way plus a quarter-turn just does not work. The correct torque for the top pinch bolts is 22 N-m (16 ft.-lbs.) and the correct torque for the lower pinch bolts is 39 N-m (29 ft.-lbs.). I don't know if "good and tight" is tighter or looser than "nice and tight" but as you can see the spec on the upper bolts is actually significantly less than for the lowers. However, neither of these is very tight by feel. Until you have done a few dozen of the same fastener to the same torque, and handle whenches almost daily, you just can't judge it by feel. After 45 years of experience, I don'teven TRY to judge a torque unless it is an emergency. If I were a betting man, I'd wager your forks are over-tightened.

Also, when I had the front forks off of my 700x, I did not need to remove anything to access the top pinch bolts. A hex Allen socket worked fine - even with the wheel straight ahead.

Welcome to the fold. I saw some lowering links advertized for the 700x somewhere on the great interweb, but I can't find it right now. By lowering your front forks, you have decreased the rake angle and the trail of the front suspension. This will make it turn in faster, but will be a bit less stable in a straight line. Probably not enough to worry about. However, lowering the rear by a similar amount will get the geometry back in spec. Then you will be faced with shortening your sidestand (if you are not already).
 
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Thanks, already so glad I joined this forum. Went and invested in a good torque wrench yesterday, re-adjusted the four bolts; the torques Beemerphile mentioned seemed totally adequate but not as tight as I had it before.

THANKS!
 
Thanks, already so glad I joined this forum. Went and invested in a good torque wrench yesterday, re-adjusted the four bolts; the torques Beemerphile mentioned seemed totally adequate but not as tight as I had it before.

THANKS!

Good deal. As I said, it is typically the case that one over tightens fasteners if done by feel.

ETA: 1-3/8" is about 35mm drop. If anyone sees are set of lowering links that effect about an 18029mm drop, please let me know. I am looking for about an 18mm drop to compensate for a 160/70 rear tire that will be about 18mm taller. If I make the tire change (undecided) I don't want to change the seat height, I want to bring it back to where it was before the tire change.
 
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can you post the torque numbers here?

PS- imo simple solution to the torque problem-make a marks on both, bracket and bolt before you loose them.

same on fork. this way you will see,if your fork is moving away from where it's suppose to be. just a thought.

Thank you!
 
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can you post the torque numbers here?

Already did earlier in the thread. The correct torque for the top pinch bolts is 22 N-m (16 ft.-lbs.) and the correct torque for the lower pinch bolts is 39 N-m (29 ft.-lbs.).


PS- imo simple solution to the torque problem-make a marks on both, bracket and bolt before you loose them.

same on fork.

I would not recommend this as an alternate process. Anyone who is going to do work on a motorcycle - even oil and filter changes - should have a torque wrench and a good (preferably factory) service manual. Putting a socket on the end of a torque wrench and setting the torque is already simple.


this way you will see,if your fork is moving away from where it's suppose to be. just a thought.

I have never seen this happen. Fasteners prone to loosening should be factory fitted with thread sealers, lock nuts, some type of lock washers, or cotter pins. If you refer to the service manual for the procedure, you will find instructions for proper torque plus any other required information to do it properly such as fastener preparation or fixing/locking methods.
 
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Thank you for the torque numbers! another thought popped in my head regarding lowering the bike: those rear links-did anyone tried to drill another hole in OEM links to lower the bike? does anyone know the diameter of the bolt hole?
Thank you!
(Sorry for my English)
 
Thank you for the torque numbers! another thought popped in my head regarding lowering the bike: those rear links-did anyone tried to drill another hole in OEM links to lower the bike? does anyone know the diameter of the bolt hole?
Thank you!
(Sorry for my English)

Longer links make a shorter bike. You may be drilling into air.
 
You are absolutely correct. Too many beers last night :) wasn't thinking straight. But still-looking at the prices of same part for different bikes I don't understand why it cost this much for NC? It's just a piece of metal with 2 holes in it. Should be cost like 20-30 bucks, not 90+.
Used 2009 Yamaha YZF R6 R6 lowering Links 2" | eBay

30 -for aluminum is sounds about right to me. Maybe some of those 20-30 bucks links from ebay will fit NC? Can anyone post dimentions of those expensive links for NC , so we can look and try a cheaper substitute from different bike? Thank you!
 
There is a lot of stress on that part. I am not sure I would want them made of aluminum unless they were beefed up profiles with bushings.
 
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There is a lot of stress on that part. I am not sure I would want them made of aluminum unless they were beefed up profiles with bushings.

Yeah, I agree with you.one that was posted above might be fine, cause of wide margins on sides and thick aluminum, but I'm also sceptical about something like this-
Yana Shiki lowering Link Stock 2" 4" Silver Fits Suzuki GSX R750 00 05 | eBay
Specially the side with multiple holes. They are imo just waay too close to each other. Anyway-I would appreciate, if someone can post the distance between two holes on those lust racing links. Thank you!
 
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