MadStad adjustable windshield system for the Honda NC700x

[LiveInTheMoment]

Not sure what to do. Just got the 20" Madstad and cannot turn the handlebars all the way because it hits my Givi handguards. Put the winglets on &, with the Givi handguards removed, the winglets hit the brake lever, too...and then some...not good. Haven't contacted customer service yet but does anyone have any suggestions? I don't have anything that will cut (not that I want to) the screen down so it will all fit.

 

[dduelin]

In a city of any size there is probably a sign fabricator or plastic fabricator shop that can professionally trim the edges of the shield for a minimal charge. That's what I did.

 

[rmezei]

Is this only at full lock ? What if you don't install the winglets ?

To the guy that trimmed pls put a pic if possible

 

[Fuzzy]

Not sure what to do. Just got the 20" Madstad and cannot turn the handlebars all the way because it hits my Givi handguards. Put the winglets on &, with the Givi handguards removed, the winglets hit the brake lever, too...and then some...not good. Haven't contacted customer service yet but does anyone have any suggestions? I don't have anything that will cut (not that I want to) the screen down so it will all fit.

Is it possible he installed winglets upside down? My clear under bark buister hand guards by 3"

Sorry the pictures arfen't better, but dark outside right now.

 

[rmezei]

You have the 2016 NC750x ?

 

[HarveyM]

I would play around with the winglets positioning. On my '16 DCT one winglet just touches on one side, but I can still turn lock to lock. The winglets are tilted to flow the wind under it -in ASCII art: back: /(winglet position) :front of bike, not back: \ (winglet) :front of bike.

 

[rmezei]

thanks man, please ignore my flood of messages, I just saw your reply back on the post.

 

[dduelin]

Taking a new picture this morning I realized handlebar risers are a factor.

When I installed the Barkbusters and they hit the Madstad at full lock I had a shop trim off 1" the bottom corners of the shield. The 1" was a straight cut off the part of the shield that extends out from the bottom corners, the extensions. After that the shield did not touch. A few months later I installed SW Motech 30mm risers. If I had installed the risers when I installed the Barkbusters it is likely there would have been no interference because the risers lift the bars to a height above the corner extensions of the Madstad.

Looking at this pic imagine the Barkbuster 30mm lower and see which parts touched. If the trimmed off part was still there it wouldn't matter as it is below the hand guard and has clearance. Hope this makes sense. I have a 20" and it is all the way down. If I raise the Madstad it would hit the hand guard if the 1" was not trimmed off.

 

[FezUSA]

I have SW Motech Kobra hand guards, on a 2016 DCT, and cannot have the deflectors installed because the guards don't clear them. I have spoken with a couple of the great guys at Madstad and they're waiting for me to send them some additional pictures. Yes they were installed correctly. The consensus seems to be that those with the 2016 model that have hand guards installed with the deflectors ALSO have risers installed, which makes all of the difference. I have yet to see a 2016 model with hand guards from SWM (they also make the Storms & VPS for Barkbusters) that clear the deflectors without the use of risers. As we're into warmer weather riding and I need new rubber, the risers will have to wait a while! I get the impression that the folks over at Madstad will be working on modifying the deflector bracket and/or deflector shape/size so the bikes with guards installed will clear without the use of risers. They seem to be top notch people who are constantly looking to improve their products where possible.

 

[rmezei]

I have SW Motech Kobra hand guards, on a 2016 DCT, and cannot have the deflectors installed because the guards don't clear them. I have spoken with a couple of the great guys at Madstad and they're waiting for me to send them some additional pictures. Yes they were installed correctly. The consensus seems to be that those with the 2016 model that have hand guards installed with the deflectors ALSO have risers installed, which makes all of the difference. I have yet to see a 2016 model with hand guards from SWM (they also make the Storms & VPS for Barkbusters) that clear the deflectors without the use of risers. As we're into warmer weather riding and I need new rubber, the risers will have to wait a while! I get the impression that the folks over at Madstad will be working on modifying the deflector bracket and/or deflector shape/size so the bikes with guards installed will clear without the use of risers. They seem to be top notch people who are constantly looking to improve their products where possible.

just for my own knowledge which risers in particular? i saw somewhere there can't really be more than 1" risers without running into stretching cables.

 

[Deleted member 5383]

i saw somewhere there can't really be more than 1" risers without running into stretching cables.

Not true. Not true.

 

[FezUSA]

just for my own knowledge which risers in particular? i saw somewhere there can't really be more than 1" risers without running into stretching cables.

I'm still undecided between 1" straight up (not really straight up due to the angle of the fork) or up and back. There's some expensive SW M's available at TT that do both, with the straight up ones being available in different mm heights (25mm being closest to 1"). The ones that are up and back are approximately 1.5" difference in length. Someone has shown pictures of where the clip is on the bottom of the tree to release some slack. 2" seems to be the max, although it also seems to vary depending on how your individual bike was put together! I'm thinking either 25mm or 300mm straight up. There are some cheap eBay alternatives that look like good options too. I think one 2016 rider used Motorwerks 1" risers without issues.

 

[SleepyC]

I just added 2" "straight up" riders. No issues with the cables at all. Didn't even un-clip or release my "clips" just licked the housing and slipped them up a bit.
No prowl;ems noticed at all. Seating position increased comfort by 1000%. AND my Storm hand guards now clear my PUIG windscreen.

 

[MalcolmReynolds]

Well I finally got the time and the nerve to mess with the risers today. I found that if I moved the Madstad up or back too far of an angle the right mirror hit the windshield. If I put it in the lowest position and straight up then it cleared the windshield OK. I don't have Barkbusters on the bike yet, but I was hoping to get enough clearance that I could add them later.

So I had seen a recommendation by Greenboy for some eBay risers that looked pretty good. So I had ordered them and they were sitting in my "project box" of stuff to put on the bike. So after watching Andy Haywood on YouTube with his pivoting risers and reading this thread I decided I needed to try and get these risers on the bike so that the interference with the Madstad would go away.

Well I got the risers on the bike, but had a few issues as the clutch cable pulls pretty tight in full lock to the left, and the controls cables were pretty tight also. I pulled until I accidentally broke one of the clips on the right side of the forks for the clutch side controls cables. So after some time stewing on that issue and watching the cable activities as I went lock to lock I decided a zip tie would probably work fine to hold that cable in place. However the clutch cable was a different matter. I adjusted the clutch control over to the right as far as i could on the bars and tried to let out a little bit of clutch adjustment and kept an eye on that cable. It is still pretty tight at full lock to the left, but that is about all I can do with it. I think it will probably be OK, but I will have to keep an eye on things. I am mechanically challenged so that is about as much as my little pea brain could come up with for a solution for the time being. If you guys have any ideas please toss them my way.

All of that rambling said and I can say that now I do have the room to adjust the Madstad windshield about where I think it should be and go lock to lock and not hit the Madstad now. If I adjust the angle too far back it will still hit it. So I just have to keep that in mind that my angle of adjustment is still somewhat limited.

So next I will have to get some Barkbusters and see if I am clearing the windshield. So far it looks promising. The only thing that appears to be a little worrying is the tension on that clutch cable from the risers and not an issue specific to the Madstad.

For reference my Madstad is the 22" model and I am 6'2" with long legs, 36" inseam. I have padded my seat to adjust for the angle and to give me a little more leg room. So that helps me with my short torso to easily see over the 22" Madstad.

 

[Hunter280]

My opinion based on posts here and Stromtroopers is that the riser/cable comments are one of those that have to be taken with a grain (or teaspoon) of salt. Part of the issue is the assembly process wherein some cables are just more loose than others. Also, I think some may tend to minimize the difficulty or consequences for whatever reason. Hope your efforts work well!!
P.S. - I'm considering 1" risers myself.

 

[Deleted member 5383]

Also, I think some may tend to minimize the difficulty or consequences for whatever reason.

If it worked easily for someone, or they know how to easily deal with it, it worked easily. Pass the salt, not the blame ; }

 

[Hunter280]

If it worked easily for someone, or they know how to easily deal with it, it worked easily. Pass the salt, not the blame ; }

Just cautioning a relative newbie (like me ) that not everything labeled as "easy" or "no problem" is in fact that way. I tugged on mine as a test the other day and they would not budge. Tells me that some clamps may have to be loosened. And others have reported that some bikes cables do slip in their clamps with little effort and some act as if they are cemented in place. Didn't mean to imply that they were dishonest; just that some tend to gloss over issues.

 

[Deleted member 5383]

as i mentioned earlier, probably not all wiring harnesses are dressed exactly the same when the bike gets assembled. even if every wire is exactly the same length, dressing the harness can make a difference. on my WR I had to go way back behind the forks, under the tank and seat to get the slack i needed, and snip a few frame wraps (too many of them anyway, someone was getting anal). on my nc i think all i did was remove a couple of bar wraps and gently tugged wiring up a way and easily got what i needed.

 

[MalcolmReynolds]

Well I can say that the cables are pretty secure in that plastic bands and there is a band up top and another one lower down. Like someone else mentioned Honda did not leave any slack anywhere so it is tight even if those plastic band clips weren't there. So I would just say pay close attention to the cable runs down and make sure you can turn lock to lock and that there isn't stress on the cables. There is just enough wiggle room to put risers on the bike, but "just". So be patient and just work the cables and where the controls are mounted on the bar to come up with a compromise.

I know I am glad that I looked down and followed the cables and turned lock to lock to see how they were being pulled tight and then made more adjustments. The initial scan up top looked fine after putting on the riser, but things were not kosher as I followed the runs.

Now I will say that when it comes to mechanical things I am lucky to get out of any encounter with tools or things mechanical with my limbs still attached, skin still covering most of my body, and things not broken, lost, or messed up. The riser change is relatively easy and that says a lot if I am saying it. It just required some patience and trying my best to think things through and double check everything.

I think just about anyone can do this if I can do it. I don't know if I would go with a riser that has as much rise and pull back as mine does just to give the clutch cable a little more room. If you have a DCT this won't be an issue at all. Just a little wrestle time with getting some cables to budge. And if you accidentally break a clip in your wrestling match I recommend pulling out some zip ties. That looked like it did the trick for me.

 

[Hunter280]

Excellent post Malcolm! Mine is a DCT so that should be one less cable to contend with. And I have a good supply of zip ties too

Edit: Remembered I have a Parking Brake . . . will have to trace that puppy for slack too.