Oil Change from Hell

[johnparker903]

So, since i took off from work today because i had to go to the dentist, i decided that i'd change the oil in my new to me NC700x. The guy i bought it from said the oil should be changed as he had it sitting for so long without riding so i went ahead and did it today. it had 1700 miles on it when i bought it and the guy said that the last oil change was at the 600 mile mark.

what a hassle...

so i picked up some T6 and a new fram filter and got to it. i got the oil out with no issues. then, came the STP oil filter that the hulk installed. i couldnt use my hands to take it off...no big deal. i grabbed the plastic end cap, attached it to my 3/8" rachet and started twisting. it stripped out the plastic piece where the ratchet attaches...that sucked cuz i only used it other time so it was pretty new. then i pulled out the trusty screwdriver and hammer. i got the screwdriver through the filter and started to push on it. didnt budge. i started to tap it with the hammer. didnt budge. then i started whacking it a little hard. didnt budge. instead, what it did was to start to tear through the filter as i was hitting it with the hammer. i was pretty pissed by then...i ran to oreillys and grabbed the smallest metal strap wrench that they offered. came home and went to put it on and that MFer was about an 1/8" too big. now im really getting pissed. went back and exchanged it for an oil filter pliers. came back home and due to the little reservoir that is so close to the filter, i couldnt get one side up in there like i wanted to so i started cursing out loud until i turned the pliers around and was able to get the grip i needed and get that damn filter off.

im giving it extra time for all of the oil to drain out so i thought id write this little post while a bit pissed to properly transfer the anger from me to my post for yall to read.

i do know one thing, the center stand is awesome. so glad it came with one, otherwise it would have been the first thing i purchased.

 

[Lou Wambsganss]

+1 for the centerstand. It makes all other maintenance, repairs, and cleaning easier.

 

[NCer]

John, sorry for the experience you've had...
But actually, I was laughing reading your post! Just imagined all that as in the cartoon... No offence! (I have to lighten up on my pills...)
I am sure the next one will be much easier, cause for damn sure you will not go ape on that filter

 

[pismocycleguy]

So, since i took off from work today because i had to go to the dentist, i decided that i'd change the oil in my new to me NC700x. The guy i bought it from said the oil should be changed as he had it sitting for so long without riding so i went ahead and did it today. it had 1700 miles on it when i bought it and the guy said that the last oil change was at the 600 mile mark.

what a hassle...

so i picked up some T6 and a new fram filter and got to it. i got the oil out with no issues. then, came the STP oil filter that the hulk installed. i couldnt use my hands to take it off...no big deal. i grabbed the plastic end cap, attached it to my 3/8" rachet and started twisting. it stripped out the plastic piece where the ratchet attaches...that sucked cuz i only used it other time so it was pretty new. then i pulled out the trusty screwdriver and hammer. i got the screwdriver through the filter and started to push on it. didnt budge. i started to tap it with the hammer. didnt budge. then i started whacking it a little hard. didnt budge. instead, what it did was to start to tear through the filter as i was hitting it with the hammer. i was pretty pissed by then...i ran to oreillys and grabbed the smallest metal strap wrench that they offered. came home and went to put it on and that MFer was about an 1/8" too big. now im really getting pissed. went back and exchanged it for an oil filter pliers. came back home and due to the little reservoir that is so close to the filter, i couldnt get one side up in there like i wanted to so i started cursing out loud until i turned the pliers around and was able to get the grip i needed and get that damn filter off.

im giving it extra time for all of the oil to drain out so i thought id write this little post while a bit pissed to properly transfer the anger from me to my post for yall to read.

i do know one thing, the center stand is awesome. so glad it came with one, otherwise it would have been the first thing i purchased.

Your experience pretty much was what I went through with my first oil and filter change. Except I went to AutoZone. And I broke the strap of the filter strap wrench. But I got some nice filter pliers!
They must have some super strong Japanese guys turning wrenches on the assembly line, or at least the engine assembly line. I also had this experience with my first oil filter change with my V- Strom and Versys.
The previous owner probably only changed the oil and skipped the filter change, or used an inaccurate torque wrench!
Should be simple the next filter change, unless you over did the filter tightening!
Good luck.

 

[HONDABIKEPRO]

The first oil filters are put on dry at the factory. The filter oil ring with oil on it would leak, and give off emissions. If the bike was to be checked for emissions, coming in to the usa, it may not pass. There are reasons why the grease on parts is very thin and light, excise lubes could effect emissions. If you use the honda wrench we have very little trouble removing the oil filters. Make sure you oil the new o ring before installing, and always use a torque wrench. And always run your finger over the engine block were the o ring would fit, to make sure there is not one stuck on the block. We have seen bike totaled from this, is there is two o rings, under pressure they will blow out, and oil the rear tire. Dale

 

[xrlke]

I use either oil filter pliers or a fairly big set of channel locks to get all oil filters off. After wrenching on my own stuff for about 15 years and 9 years of that being a small engine mechanic, I've never had to use a screwdriver and hammer. The factory oil filter on my bike was probably an 8 out of 10, with 10 being the tightest one I've ever had to remove. I probably average 400 oil filters per year in removal and installation.

 

[johnparker903]

It was definitely a hassle but I learned some things and got the right tools. I checked the seal and oiled the new filter o-ring. Ran the bike a bit to check for leaks and nothing so far. Will check again in the morning. I ride around 800 miles a week to work and back so I'll be changing the oil again in no time.

 

[agia]

I feel your pain & frustration! Had a similar experience with a bolt in the rear fender only I managed to strip it no matter what I did to try to remove it. Had to extract it but then I replaced it with an upgraded bolt from a hardware store.


Yep...that's a hole in the top of the right bolt! Lucky for me it came out...

 

[johnparker903]

Damn...that looks nuts. I almost stripped the right side bolt on the plastic skid plate although the previous owner did a good job on his own...

 

[CGFS]

So this may be common sense to ye folks with what I hear is called mechanical aptitude. But is there a way to change the oil with just the side stand. Funds do not currently permit me going out and buying a center stand.

 

[Lou Wambsganss]

So this may be common sense to ye folks with what I hear is called mechanical aptitude. But is there a way to change the oil with just the side stand. Funds do not currently permit me going out and buying a center stand.

It is not required, just convenient. The procedure is the same either way. When checking oil level afterwards, be sure the bike is completely straight upright (as in you balancing it, not on a stand). Also, don't thread the oil fill plug in to check the level, just push it in to the hole until it stops and pull back out to check the dipstick oil level. Obviously, thread it in until hand tight when complete.

 

[L.B.S.]

If you use the honda wrench we have very little trouble removing the oil filters.

A hearty +1 on this.

I bought the Honda filter, crush washer and metal cap wrench sold as a package at the dealer. Super happy I did that, as I had zero issues with removing the original Godzilla torqued on filter. Using the OEM cap wrench, it felt like the filter was about to fall off on it's own, it was so easy to undo!

 

[VE258]

While on side stand-its tilted.more oil (and crap at the bottom of the pan(if any)) will come out. Imo it's actually better to change the oil on side stand. I see no need for center stand

 

[HONDABIKEPRO]

I feel your pain & frustration! Had a similar experience with a bolt in the rear fender only I managed to strip it no matter what I did to try to remove it. Had to extract it but then I replaced it with an upgraded bolt from a hardware store.

View attachment 13069
Yep...that's a hole in the top of the right bolt! Lucky for me it came out...

One of my tricks to make removing Allen bolt a little easier, is to take your allen socket and face the end of it, that will make it grab more of the surface area inside the hole. Most allen wrenches are rounded off on the end, to line up and go into the hole easier.
But may be a little harder to get it in, and you must be straight. Dale

 

[agia]

One of my tricks to make removing Allen bolt a little easier, is to take your allen socket and face the end of it, that will make it grab more of the surface area inside the hole. Most allen wrenches are rounded off on the end, to line up and go into the hole easier.
But may be a little harder to get it in, and you must be straight. Dale

I admit to starting this with a Park bicycle tool which has a ball end. Works great on low torque bicycle hardware! But a lesson was learned on my choice of tools. I found some nice German made T-Handle hex wrenches that I since added to my toolbox. I'll have to check my Allen sockets.

Thanks for the info.

 

[silverhound]

+1 on the oil filter cap socket/wrench. Not sure if this is the same as the honda OEM wrench but I bought a 65-67mm/14 flute socket at Advance auto about 8 years ago and it has worked on all my motorcycles. Cost was around $8. Fits a 3/8" socket wrench.

 

[L.B.S.]

I admit to starting this with a Park bicycle tool which has a ball end. Works great on low torque bicycle hardware! But a lesson was learned on my choice of tools. I found some nice German made T-Handle hex wrenches that I since added to my toolbox. I'll have to check my Allen sockets.

Thanks for the info.

On normal Allen bolts, the ball end wrenches usually work quite well as long as the angle isn't too much and you are very careful with application, but some of the Allen bolts on the NCX have easily half the depth of regular ones!

I think of them as "cosmetic" bolts, because they always seem to be strictly used for holding on plastic parts, never anything with metal to metal. Even at the best of times they can be a bunch of slippery buggers to work on, and if the threads seize up a bit, auugh! HBP has excellent advice for helping with these.

 

[johnparker903]

Is the center piece metal? That's the part I stripped on my fully plastic model that I have.

 

[silverhound]

Is the center piece metal? That's the part I stripped on my fully plastic model that I have.

Don't know about the one in the picture as I posted it as an example. The one I bought is all metal construction. I wasn't aware they made plastic ones.

 

[netizen]

I've got one of these Universal oil filter wrenches and it has always worked very well for me



Amazon.com: World's Best Universal Oil Filter Wrench - 3 Jaws: Home Improvement



This one actually has a higher review rating... never tried it but it looks pretty good



Amazon.com: Lisle 63250 Wide Range Filter Wrench: Automotive


I'm thinking the biggest problem you had with your end cap wrench was it was plastic. These are both steel. Probably a steel end cap would have worked fine, but I do like the idea of the clamps tightening down on these two. Glad you were able to get it off in the end. Perseverance pays off!