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Replace Brake Pads

Here is the spring clip as installed. The end that is at the top in your pic is the end that sits over the pad lugs. IE it should be the at the bottom as installed on the bike.

Caliper Spring.jpg

As mentioned, I just put a tiny dab of grease wherever there is metal-to-metal contact. That means where the pads, pin, and clip touch. Wipe off any excess and don't get grease on the pad friction surface or the rotor.
 
OK... I usually take a photo of "before I start". That was a good idea as it have me a hint about how the clip goes in and on. The clip's function is.....what exactly.
Here's the before picture showing the clip "rounded tab" part that helped me put it back. To make it match the photo, it could only go in one way.
View attachment 16919
 
Lou Wambsganss said:
The clip keeps a little bit of pressure on the pads to keep them from rattling or chattering during operation, which would lead to increased pad and pin wear.
Click to expand...

Just getting ready to say the same thing. The metal clips provide pressure on the pads to keep them from moving around inside the caliper.

Your on the downhill slope now Strat.
 
OK... thanks to you guys, and your photos, it's all back together and torqued down to 13lbs/ft.
Now comes the scary part... a ride around the neighborhood to see if it works.

NB: I haven't touched the rear brakes and won't until I have a lot more confidence in the new front pads.

I still don't understand why the new pads would be clamped hard against the rotor, but I'm counting on that working itself out.

I've spent a long time (on a bicycle) adjust brake pad clearences. I note that I do NONE of that on disc brakes.... makes me worry.
Time for a short ride.
 
On a bicycle, (assuming you are talking about rim brakes), there is a metal spring to pull the pads away from the rim when not in use. You need this because the rim is big and (relatively) flexible and the pads are sift rubber. A disc brake doesn't have this. The pads don't really retract (or need to), since nothing is very flexible. The rotor and pads are rigid when compared to bicycle parts. When the brakes are released, it only takes a few thousandths of an inch (if that even) to get the pad off of the rotor. This is accomplished by the o-rings around the pistons wanting to "untwist" a little bit. This is just barely enough motion to keep the pads from dragging "hard". There will always be a little bit of friction between the pads and rotor while moving.

It might take several pumps of the brake lever with everything installed to get the pads back out to meet the rotor. Once the lever feels firm again, rock the bike forward and back and squeeze the lever. This will give you a good feeling of the brake's strength. Once you are at least semi-confident, take it out for a low speed ride to test. It will take a few miles with string applications to get the new pads fully bedded onto the rotor.
 
OK... that worked. It's stopping me well, and when I push it with my feet, the resistance seems normal... to me that means I'm not "dragging a brake pad" at least not very much anyway. Of course, that was just a few times around the block with some practice stops. I won't have confidence in the brake pad replacement for months.

I can't see the fluid line in the brake fluid window. That suggest two possibilities. 1: the brake fluid reservoir is full to the brim, or 2: it's completely empty.
Is there a safe way to check on that?

Someone said this was easier than chain/sprocket replacement. That person is correct, but this is way more nerve wracking.

Seargent Chuck and Lou were a gift from God today. Thank you both, gentleman.
 
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Turn the bars and lean the bike. Maybe you will be able to see the fluid level. The fluid itself is a faint straw color (yellowish, kind of gold).

If you haven't opened the system and don't have any leaks, you should be fine. If you must confirm, you can always take the cap off the reservoir. There are two Phillips head countersunk screws on the cap. WIpe any dirt off the cap before opening. Make sure you don't drip any fluid on the bike. It eats paint and plastic.
 
Put an old towel or 2 under the reservoir and open it up. Brake fluid is probably a little high with the new pads. If it is only a touch high then I'd leave it alone.

The rear is even easier.

Can't wait for you to do the clutch!!!!!
 
Drama queen? Whatever. You are expanding your mechanical know how and doing things that make you nervous. That is awesome.

I'm not as vocal as you but I freak out, go inside, have a smoke, come back out and figure it out. Sometimes it takes some searching for help but that is just part of it. You now know the basics of disk brakes and they work the same on most any vehicle.
 
Good stuff lads! I just found out front brake pads (TRW brand, and not even Honda) costs 50€! Where do you get the parts? Parts numbers? Thanks. I run the ABS brakes, are they the same?


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Strat don't take this the wrong way,or anyone else for that matter. But I learn more from your trial and error and questions and lack of knowing then I do from anyone else.I will use this thread when comes time to do mine so thank you and good job.
 
ziggie said:
Strat don't take this the wrong way,or anyone else for that matter. But I learn more from your trial and error and questions and lack of knowing then I do from anyone else.I will use this thread when comes time to do mine so thank you and good job.
Click to expand...

While none of it is fake, I assure you, that's always my faint hope....that struggling will cause me (an hopefully others) to learn.
 
happy said:
Good stuff lads! I just found out front brake pads (TRW brand, and not even Honda) costs 50€! Where do you get the parts? Parts numbers? Thanks. I run the ABS brakes, are they the same?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Happy, I ordered my pads from MotorcycleSuperstore.com
When I went there, it asked me to name my bike starting with year, maker, then model. I went back there to check and there doesn't seem to be a separate designation for the ABS.
The pads may be the same even if there are more pistons. I have two on the front (standard) model, and I presume the shared brakes on ABS will have 3.
Will the same pads work on yours? Probably, but you might check with a dealer first to make sure.
cheers,
 
There are 2 offers from polo-motorrad.ch costing 25chf or 35chf. I'd go with those. I'd probably change the front set first.


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Yep.. changed the front set first as I thought they would be the most difficult. Generous people here got me through that.
Today, I'm taking it out for its first 100-mile plus ride. If all goes well, I may do the rears this week.

I admit I still don't understand how to tell WHEN to do it.... I wonder if there's some indicator that may be read or examined that could tell a person when it was time to change the pads?
 
StratTuner said:
I admit I still don't understand how to tell WHEN to do it.... I wonder if there's some indicator that may be read or examined that could tell a person when it was time to change the pads?
Click to expand...

There is spec in the manual for pad thickness.................

In some calipers there is hole one can look into with a flashlight and observe the pad and judge thickness left. On the NC you observe the pad thickness without disassembly by looking at the front or back of the caliper where it meets the mounting bracket and the pad material can be seen and judged.
 
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