b_rubenstein
New Member
The Honda calipers are an aluminum alloy and won't rust.
I have just over 20k miles on my bike and replaced the pads today with ECB HH sintered pads. The OEM Nissen pads look like they are also metallic sintered pads. The wear groves in the old pads were 0.15mm deep and the pad material was just under 2mm thick. The ECB pads don't have wear grooves, but the instructions state that the pads should be replaced when the pad material is 2mm thick.
The slider pins are sealed pretty well and the caliper moved smoothly on the pins, so I didn't disassemble enough to lube the pins. Since brake fluid doesn't flow through the caliper, old contaminated will stay in the caliper. Therefore, when the pistons have to be pushed back into the caliper, to make room for the new pads, I put a hose over the bleed valve and crack the valve open as I put pressure on the pistons. This forces the old fluid, and often air, out of the caliper. (It's particularly important to do this for ABS brakes so that old, dirty, contaminated fluid fluid isn't forced back up the brake lines into the the ABS unit.) Before putting in the new pads I cleaned the rotor with brake cleaner and a Scotch Brite pad. The inner pad is backed by a stainless steel shim and a vibration dampening pad that I transferred over to the new.
It was drizzling when I was done replacing the pads, but this is okay for the initial bedding in of the pads, since it will keep the brake from over heating and carry away pad and rotor material as they wear in. I follow the Bendix 30-30-30 pad bedding method: 30 stops, from 30mph in 30 minutes. Since I didn't replace the rotor, the rotor and pad still have to wear into each other for full surface contact.
I have just over 20k miles on my bike and replaced the pads today with ECB HH sintered pads. The OEM Nissen pads look like they are also metallic sintered pads. The wear groves in the old pads were 0.15mm deep and the pad material was just under 2mm thick. The ECB pads don't have wear grooves, but the instructions state that the pads should be replaced when the pad material is 2mm thick.
The slider pins are sealed pretty well and the caliper moved smoothly on the pins, so I didn't disassemble enough to lube the pins. Since brake fluid doesn't flow through the caliper, old contaminated will stay in the caliper. Therefore, when the pistons have to be pushed back into the caliper, to make room for the new pads, I put a hose over the bleed valve and crack the valve open as I put pressure on the pistons. This forces the old fluid, and often air, out of the caliper. (It's particularly important to do this for ABS brakes so that old, dirty, contaminated fluid fluid isn't forced back up the brake lines into the the ABS unit.) Before putting in the new pads I cleaned the rotor with brake cleaner and a Scotch Brite pad. The inner pad is backed by a stainless steel shim and a vibration dampening pad that I transferred over to the new.
It was drizzling when I was done replacing the pads, but this is okay for the initial bedding in of the pads, since it will keep the brake from over heating and carry away pad and rotor material as they wear in. I follow the Bendix 30-30-30 pad bedding method: 30 stops, from 30mph in 30 minutes. Since I didn't replace the rotor, the rotor and pad still have to wear into each other for full surface contact.
