• A few people have been scammed on the site, Only use paypal to pay for items for sale by other members. If they will not use paypal, its likely a scam NEVER SEND E-TRANSFERS OF ANY KIND.

Replace Brake Pads

There are wear indicators in the OEM pads to show the minimum thickness. Described in owners manual

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 
StratTuner said:
Today, I'm taking it out for its first 100-mile plus ride. If all goes well, I may do the rears this week.
Click to expand...

Cook's Corner and Hell's Kitchen are two famous Biker destinations in So. Cal. (Google them). I went past both today and had to use the front brakes under normal and a couple yellow light situations. They performed well. I don't have any sensation that the pads are "dragging" against the calipers... It all feels very familiar, and even the gas mileage is really good...that is a clue that the brakes aren't holding me back any. My confidence grows.

Thank you all for the encouragement and especially the photos at crunch time!
 
Thanks everyone for this detailed thread. ... It's been helpful with my first attempt at changing the front pads... A few questions though.
1) the original pad (that didn't rest on the piston) has a perforated metal and plastic liner on its back. Did you unclipped this and reuse it?
2) for the life of me, I cannot find the clip that is pictured in previous posts. I don't remember seeing it when I took the pads off... it is not on the floor... I don't even see it in the manual. The pad spring which is in the caliper is the only thing that marginally looks like the clip, but I am pretty sure it is in the tight place. Any thoughts?
 
Harald said:
The basics have been covered, but I would add just one thing. Before pushing the pistons back into the caliper, clean the exposed portion of the pistons to avoid damaging the O-rings that keep the brake fluid inside the caliper. A tooth brush and some Simple Green works great for this. If you really want to do a perfect job of cleaning the pistons (I always do) then stick a piece of wood that's at least as thick as the brake rotor and the backing plate of both pads between the pistons and apply that brake. This forces the pistons out a little further for a really good cleaning.

You asked about how the pads retract and don't drag on the rotor? Keeping the seals clean is part of that action. When you apply the brakes, the pressurized brake fluid forces the piston out to put force on the pads and in the process the O-ring rolls a little. Once you release the brake pressure, the O-ring will want to roll back and this will retract the pad just a hair. Also, no rotor tracks 100% true and so that variation can also help push the pad back just a hair. If your pistons and O-rings are dirty and in poor shape, then the piston could resist retraction and then you have dragging pads which heat up the rotor and wear out quickly or enevenly. Taken to an extreme, dragging pads can heat up the brake fluid to the point where you lose brakes (and this would happen even quicker if you have old fluid with moisture in it inside your brake lines).
Click to expand...

This is good advice. I would add just one aspect. As I do not know what Simple Green is, I generally use brake fluid or a silicone based cleaner to clean the pistons before pushing them back in their bores.
 
Gonepaddling said:
Thanks everyone for this detailed thread. ... It's been helpful with my first attempt at changing the front pads... A few questions though.
1) the original pad (that didn't rest on the piston) has a perforated metal and plastic liner on its back. Did you unclipped this and reuse it?
Click to expand...

I unclip it off the original pad and reuse, unless a fresh item is included with the pads.
 
ziggie said:
Don't mean to change your topic strat but where did you get your service manual?
Click to expand...

Bought mine off eBay. YOu can find new and used ones there; many are less expensive that the dealer or Helm (the publisher). Sometimes used ones are sold here in the forum.

BTW, your PM storage is full or I would have PM'ed this to minimize thread hijack.
 
Gonepaddling said:
Was this standard on the bike and something I've lost? I don't see it in the maintenance manual. Do you think I will be able to get it from the dealer?
Click to expand...

In theory, there should be two similar items lurking about- a Pad Spring [part# 45108-MET-652] and a Bracket Retainer [part# 45112-MZ2-006] (not counting the metal anti-squeal shim that may or may not be included in a package of new brake pads)

Be aware that the little retainers and clips are not the same between the NC700X model, and the NC700XA (like we have) or NC700XD models.

Our Canuck prices for those two little bits will probably be double or triple the cost, lol.

2012 Honda NC700XD AC FRONT BRAKE CALIPER (NC700XA/XD) | Babbitts Honda Parts House

spring pad 9.jpg

retainer bracket 11.jpg
 
Thanks again for all of your time and help.... but I am still a bit confused. Both of those metal clips are in place.
9e272c9ba73b7495297b2bba02d375d2.jpg

This is the pad spring.. which appears to be in the right place...
But it does not look like the picture below (from a precious post #62 which say this is how the spring clip is installed) I do not have the clip or spring showing above the brake pad pin / lugs. Is this clip something different. It's not mentioned in the manual (unless it is the pad spring and mine is installed wrong..
3ff679b82c8610f44b389d7a404519a1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Gonepaddling said:
Thanks again for all of your time and help...
Click to expand...


Apologies, I should have looked at my front brake after work yesterday. I will clean off the mud and see if I have a clip or not, when I get home today. Who knows, maybe some models and/or caliper variants, don't have that clip.
 
That clip is there on a NON ABS model. Your's looks to be one with ABS. So they're going to be different. Here's a picture of my NON ABS front brake.
daseqe7u.jpg


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Rest easy, G.P. ;)

Unless mischievous pixies spirited mine away somehow as well, my bike doesn't have that clip either.

DSCF1736.jpg
 
This thread rocks....Any walkthroughs on how a proper rear brake caliper removal can be done or maybe screenshots from the service manual will be nice....Am thinking of removing mine for a good cleaning....
 
HowieDees said:
...Am thinking of removing mine for a good cleaning....
Click to expand...

I have no idea why you would want to do this. There is no cleaning maintenance called for in the manual. The manual doesn't even call for cleaning and lubing the caliper slider pins when replacing brake pads. It only calls for putting some silicone grease on the pad retention rod.

If the caliper looks dirty, get some soapy water and a soft brush and wash the outside of the caliper.
 
I changed my rear tire the other day so I had my rear caliper assembly in hand. I've ridden this bike over four years with very few washings and the caliper assembly wasn't bad. So unless you just feel like doing it, I don't see the need. If you really want to clean it, it is very easy to remove. No video necessary, you'll be able to figure it out just by looking at it. Very straight forward process.
 
I just did a brake job on my wife's Suburu last week. It was brought from WA state and there was so much rust in the shoe brackets I couldnt get the ss clips in. I had to spend and hour with a dremel to grind all the rust away. The pads wore badly as they were not sliding anymore. So if you ride in a salty state be prepared for that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Hank
Changed break pads
Replies
1
Views
504
670cc
670cc
H
Throttle not closing
Replies
4
Views
461
hoyden
H
Dawn Treader
Question Thunderbox and battery tender
Replies
5
Views
536
670cc
670cc
the Ferret
Tire wear
2
Replies
35
Views
2K
1984VF1100S
1
mzflorida
Brakes "Skipping" at end of Braking Cycle
Replies
13
Views
287
mzflorida
mzflorida
Back
Top