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Winter storage question.

Techrat

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Last year I stored my brand new 2016 at the dealership. Storage was $300 for Sep to Apr but if you had over $300 worth of work, storage was free. I had them do the first 600 mile checkup and change out the grips, so storage was free.

This year I haven't even put 3,000 miles on the bike, mostly due to an extra short summer and a lot of rainy days. Since my next maintenance isn't due and I put several farkles on the bike myself, I don't need any work done. So to save money, I put the bike in my indoor storage unit that I'm already paying for. I checked with management first. And as long as the bike's gas tank was either totally full or totally empty, it was fine.

The bike is currently strapped to a lift, wheels off the ground. I added stabilizer and topped off the tank. The only problem is that I have trickle charger but there's no where to plug it in. I thought about buying a battery backup unit, charging it at home, taking it to the unit and hooking up the charger to it and the bike. Does anyone see a problem? I'm thinking that if I did this once a month, that it would be enough to keep the battery from dying. Thoughts? Comments?

Techrat
:confused:
 
From my experience with charging 3 different YUASA batteries, for the last 6 years, is to follow YUASA advice: charging at least once every 3 weeks, for 6 to 10 hours with regulated voltage 13.8-14.0.
Most consumer-grade UPS back-ups can hold maybe for 1 hour, and they are heavy.
As Doc True said - why not to remove battery and keep it at home for the period of storage of your bike?
 
Never occurred to me to take the battery out and take it with me. Wow. Hopefully I won't have too much trouble doing it. This is my first bike and I'm a little nervous about taking out the battery. Is it harder than taking out a car battery? Smaller usually means more delicate.
 
Never occurred to me to take the battery out and take it with me. Wow. Hopefully I won't have too much trouble doing it. This is my first bike and I'm a little nervous about taking out the battery. Is it harder than taking out a car battery? Smaller usually means more delicate.

They're made just like car batteries. They aren't delicate at all and it's fairly easy to get to in the NC.
 
Never occurred to me to take the battery out and take it with me. Wow. Hopefully I won't have too much trouble doing it. This is my first bike and I'm a little nervous about taking out the battery. Is it harder than taking out a car battery? Smaller usually means more delicate.

Yes, take it with you, but there is still an advantage to storing/charging it in a cool place. Heat ages batteries. So if you have a cool/cold place at home near an outlet for the charger, store it there.

You might see references to not storing the battery on the floor in storage advice articles. That’s old school advice based on ancient battery box construction materials and no longer applies today. Store it on the floor if your want.
 
Never occurred to me to take the battery out and take it with me. Wow. Hopefully I won't have too much trouble doing it. This is my first bike and I'm a little nervous about taking out the battery. Is it harder than taking out a car battery? Smaller usually means more delicate.

Removal is extremely easy but it wasn't completely obvious to me until another user showed me... so thought I would tell you. Remove the top two screws inside the front of the frunk. Open the lid. You will see a rubber strap across the front of the battery - hold onto it and give it a stretch down. At the bottom of the rubber band there is a clip that you release. That's it. You can unscrew the battery there or pull it out a little. Replace all the screws so you don't lose them. Put the battery somewhere warm with a battery maintainer attached and forget about it until spring.

I have a Noco 3500 (link) and it is great but a simple Battery Tender Jr is fine.
 
Removal is extremely easy but it wasn't completely obvious to me until another user showed me... so thought I would tell you. Remove the top two screws inside the front of the frunk. Open the lid. You will see a rubber strap across the front of the battery - hold onto it and give it a stretch down. At the bottom of the rubber band there is a clip that you release. That's it. You can unscrew the battery there or pull it out a little. Replace all the screws so you don't lose them. Put the battery somewhere warm with a battery maintainer attached and forget about it until spring.

I have a Noco 3500 (link) and it is great but a simple Battery Tender Jr is fine.

Thanks for the instructions. I had downloaded a page from the manual but the actual procedure wasn't too clear and there aren't any YouTube videos specifically for removing the battery from the NC700X. You are greatly appreciated.
 
I have tried several brands including that one and cannot tell any difference.
I keep a bunch of them running. My mother’s car, sometimes our cars, two lawnmowers, a tractor, a boat, a clay pigeon thrower, and two motorcycles.
They are probably all made in the same factory in China.
 
1. As advised by many, please take the battery out and charge it in a warm room. Buy a cheap timer plug, charge it daily for 20 minutes.

2. Top up the fuel tank (to avoid condensation)

3. Clean the chain and oil it

4. If possible, WD40 all the exposed metals (except brakes)

5. One last thing: unless you are hell bent on keeping the bike forever, you should refrain from keeping the bike in showroom condition (like me).
When it is time to sell it / trade it in (like me right now), the pain is much more unbearable.

Keep the bike for riding...not for your showroom.

Cheers.
:cool:
 
I add sea foam and non alcohol gas

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


That’s an interesting topic because seafoam ingredients are naphtha, pale oil and alcohol ( as per the MSDS) so does that alcohol off set the pure gas purchase ????????:rolleyes:
 
If you guys want your bike to have no rust, no corrosion and be perfect when you pull it out of storage spray and wipe some ACF-50 on it. (Do not put on brake rotors, brakes, tires, pegs or seats).

This is a capillary oil designed for airplanes to protect the metal from rust and corrosion. It is awesome. Totally protects the bike. You can hose your whole motor down and wipe it off, wheels, any aluminum, crash bars.. just a light misting works great and a quick wipe off. Don't need to go heavy. In the spring if you did it right nothing to do just ride. The light oil will burn off hot stuff and leave no marks or residue. This guy shows how he does it and how well it works.

Get it here: ACF-50

How to apply ACF50 to your motorcycle - YouTube
 
the battery tender JR is perfectly fine. getting the big brother just charges a flat battery faster. plug it in, attach to battery, and forget about it. it's a float charger. it'll stop charging when done and start when needed
 
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