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2017: What did you do to/with your NC700 today?

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Finished installing the Cameleon plus automatic chain oiler and put on the DanMoto GP Carbon fiber exhaust. Sounds as good or better than the two brothers on the other daughter's NC700X and it wasn't $405 it was only $135 plus $18 for the baffle which doesn't baffle much. Maybe gives it a slightly deeper throaty sound. It sounds wonderful and probably drops 15 or 20 pounds as it weighs less than 2 pounds. Need to figure out a center stand stop now though.

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Greyones solution is much nicer and would last longer but someone posted earlier about zip tying a rubber block to the swing arm, at least for a temporary fix
 
rippin209 said:
Over the last week I've installed
...
kick stand foot. In the center stand discussion I was convinced they are worth buying and now I agree
...
I drilled out the center and ground down the inside of the OEM bar weights so the bolt that comes with the bark busters would fit and reinstalled those
643ce00547b0232d2c61332e0fc90d2f.jpg

Between this cheepo adjustable bar and the larger OEM bar weights I've completely gotten rid of handle bar vibrations until around 4600-4800 rpms so a huge improvement for me
Click to expand...

Because I ride in the rain I bought a bottle of Goth Black nail polish and used it to paint the cheap rusty bots on my mirror extenders and elsewhere on the bike. I put the same Ebay foot pads on the NC and my son Max's CB500X, they work great.
 
To commemorate 10,000 miles, I put on fancy new stars and a chain, and went for a shakedown ride.

cc3d58ef857c996977f9707a596666c4.jpg


552b6dfb936034d8163662913a278b92.jpg


The old ones look ok, but the OEM chain is toast.

486c5f02029915f80479c4b27c93e7b1.jpg
 
After much hacking and filing...eureka! A metal plate for my grip potentiometer, SAE plug, etc..
DSC_0112.jpg

Need to drill holes and either bend it or cut about 3" off, but the general shape is complete.
 
I switched mine out at the 16,000 mi service, condition wasn't too bad but figured I'd have it done with the new tires, etc.
 
Grey1one said:
I switched mine out at the 16,000 mi service, condition wasn't too bad but figured I'd have it done with the new tires, etc.
Click to expand...

I just got new tires so maybe Ill change my chain with my next new tires at around 20k to 25k miles.
 
Therapy said:
I sure hope I get more than 10k out of my factory chain...
Click to expand...

My factory chain went 17,000 miles (changed at 19,000 odo).* Still on original sprockets and "2nd" chain at 32,200 miles.

* There was an original chain the was replaced for recall at 2000 miles.
 
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Had some chain noise today. Seems like some of the links were stiff. Cleaned it with kerosene, re-lubed. Much improved on test ride around the block.
 
Got some handguards from Givi today and mounted them on the bike.
Pretty necessary since it started hailing and pouring when I got them.
My hands were also pretty cold, even when using winter gloves.
 
Therapy said:
I sure hope I get more than 10k out of my factory chain...
Click to expand...

You probably get more out of if you take care of it. Mine has seen a lot of rain, dust and general abuse from me flogging it.
It would temporarily fix itself after a gentle clean/lube, but I don't want to do that every ride. My sprockets teeth look fine,
not hooked that I can tell, a little polishing on the side of the teeth (perhaps from misalignment?) but I think that's okay.
I used a laser tool this time. :)

When changing sprockets/tires, putting the rear tire back on is the hardest part.
It's such a PITA especially when you have that little DCT brake down there mocking you as you try to align stuff while lifting the tire.
The first time I did it, I managed to do it without removing the brakes, this time around I figured what the hell and removed and serviced both.
Much easier to get the tire on and also sort of forces you to inspect clean and lube the sliding parts...

I'm gonna build a little wooden platform that holds the tire at exactly the right height (like two inches off the ground) so I can use both hands to align instead of using one to lift.
 
I'm guessing stock steel sprockets get way more life than the stock chain. I hit 10,000 on the stock chain some time ago, and it's still looking/feeling right and with little or no stretch though. Guess that Dupont Chain saver is paying off, partly because it doesn't attract or build up crap, partly because I don't overdo it. Thinking about getting a front sprocket cover like this though, for easy cleaning. $24.50 shipped, anodized in various colors.

Front Engine Sprocket Cover Protector

s-l1600.jpg
 
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probably 90% of the grime that actually gets flung anywhere sticks to the inside of the concentric case shield already there. this style of sprocket cover minus the lexan or whatever they are using is commonly used on dualsports like the WR250R and various dirt bikes. Not much seems to get flung outside, but if you don't make much of a mess to start with, it mainly prevents or eases mud/clay/grease buildup that the stock sprocket covers get plugged with. What little gets past it is easily cleaned.

Example of one of the WR250R aftermarket sprocket covers --

9608281296_1b4827997a.jpg
 
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I would use such a cover to oil the chain. That way you just spray on the engine case and don't have overspray on your tire/floor.
 
supertux1 said:
You probably get more out of if you take care of it. Mine has seen a lot of rain, dust and general abuse from me flogging it.
It would temporarily fix itself after a gentle clean/lube, but I don't want to do that every ride. My sprockets teeth look fine,
not hooked that I can tell, a little polishing on the side of the teeth (perhaps from misalignment?) but I think that's okay.
I used a laser tool this time. :)

When changing sprockets/tires, putting the rear tire back on is the hardest part.
It's such a PITA especially when you have that little DCT brake down there mocking you as you try to align stuff while lifting the tire.
The first time I did it, I managed to do it without removing the brakes, this time around I figured what the hell and removed and serviced both.
Much easier to get the tire on and also sort of forces you to inspect clean and lube the sliding parts...

I'm gonna build a little wooden platform that holds the tire at exactly the right height (like two inches off the ground) so I can use both hands to align instead of using one to lift.
Click to expand...

Some stuff is just a PITA. I saw an article a long time ago about some bikes that had completely enclosed chains. A plastic housing that kept out nearly everything. It looked horrible but chains in that environment lasted "forever". I don't get (and never have) how so much "form" displaces "function". Saving a shaft drive on the NC ($$$) it would make it just more of a low maintenance slugger.
 
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