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2022 NC750XD won't switch into Neutral

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MtnBkr47

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Most of the time my new DCT worked normally, but Occasionally at a stop light, etc, it would not switch into Neutral.... never a problem with Drive fortunately, and the kickstand switch works. If I turn it Off and restart, I could once again get into Neutral just fine. Only 1300 miles on the bike. After reading some of the great info here, I checked my battery connections and voltage (all OK), my idle RPM is normal at 1200, throttle slack normal, and my oil is OK. I did a DCT reset calibration and it took 4 tries to achieve success, but all is normal so far. I wondered if this had happened because a forgot a couple times and shut my engine off before I had switched into Neutral. Is this problem something that happens much, and is there a reason for it... something to worry about?
 
It would be more helpful in trying to find the problem if you could record a short video showing the display (combination meter).
When you come to a complete stop, apply the parking brake or foot brake and try to switch to Neutral without touching the throttle. This is for starters. It's hard to speculate without seeing.
 
Well, it's still not shifting into Neutral at times. It's on Video this time (see attached). Otherwise, Bike runs and shifts great, but sometimes just won't shift to Neutral after stopping.
 

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  • 2022 NC750XD won't shift to Neutral_Trim.zip
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Thanks for showing this video.
I don't remember seeing a similar case on this forum or on the CTX forum. Of course, I wouldn't be able to see all the issues raised in the forum.
Since I do not see a DTC, my advice is to go to an authorized Honda dealer.
 
Your N-D Shift Switch appears to be functioning properly.
I think all you can do before it comes to dismantling the DCT is to reseat the main PCM connector.
 
In the video, is the rear wheel in motion (maybe bike is on center stand) when you push the neutral button? If not, it seems like a legitimate issue with the bike.
 
mzflorida said:
Have you tried switching between manual and auto modes?
Click to expand...
Switching between auto and manual mode is just a programming trick. The functionality of DCT remains the same. After the motorcycle is stopped, switching from 1st gear to N position can only be done via the N-D Switch, regardless of mode. Something causes that the PCM does not respond to the signal from the switch. There are several sensors inside the DCT giving information about the gear position. It is possible that one of these signals is incorrect. Purely diagnostic work. It can be done with the help of the service manual, but I think the dealer should have more accurate instrumentation.
 
lootzyan said:
Switching between auto and manual mode is just a programming trick. The functionality of DCT remains the same. After the motorcycle is stopped, switching from 1st gear to N position can only be done via the N-D Switch, regardless of mode. Something causes that the PCM does not respond to the signal from the switch. There are several sensors inside the DCT giving information about the gear position. It is possible that one of these signals is incorrect. Purely diagnostic work. It can be done with the help of the service manual, but I think the dealer should have more accurate instrumentation.
Click to expand...
You're right, I did try manual mode and it made no difference.
 
"... does not respond to the signal from the switch."
Is there (really) a signal ? Worn switch ?
 
Zalm said:
"... does not respond to the signal from the switch."
Is there (really) a signal ? ...
Click to expand...
If you watch the above video from around 00:50 then you will notice a "signal" to PCM - "switch to N".
 
UPDATE: The Dealer advised me to just rock the bike while in gear since it is fundamentally a manual transmission. So, I did, and it worked. However, at 1200 rpm the clutch is not engaged, so I had to goose the throttle a little and hold it back with brakes & feet, etc, but it then went into Neutral immediately when selected. So, is that a good resolution?... don't know... maybe it will resolve itself in time since it doesn't happen very often. It's maybe a mechanical tolerance issue?
 
Your situation is different because you can't switch to Neutral while the engine is idling and the alternator is giving enough power to shift motor. In situations I remember, you couldn't start the engine because DCT was stuck in gear. Then rocking the bike or charging the battery could help.
Personally, I would be afraid to rock the bike when the engine is running and the DCT is in gear. And in your case, shutting the engine off and restarting it switches DCT to Neutral, with no rocking.
 
Last edited:
MtnBkr47 said:
UPDATE: The Dealer advised me to just rock the bike while in gear since it is fundamentally a manual transmission. So, I did, and it worked. However, at 1200 rpm the clutch is not engaged, so I had to goose the throttle a little and hold it back with brakes & feet, etc, but it then went into Neutral immediately when selected. So, is that a good resolution?... don't know... maybe it will resolve itself in time since it doesn't happen very often. It's maybe a mechanical tolerance issue?
Click to expand...
Rocking the bike back and forth should not require goosing the throttle. With your feet down and throttle closed, rock the bike foward and aft a little while attempting switching to neutral again.

I am not a DCT owner, so not an expert on it, but your exact case is the first I’ve heard of here in 10 years. Cycling key switch power to get the transmission to neutral doesn’t make much sense. The shift motor should be able to rotate the shift drum while the engine is running. It doesn’t sound normal.
 
That's an interesting difference between "Rocking the bike" and "Cycling key switch" since both methods will get the transmission into Neutral. I guess they both jolt the shift drum enough to allow the Shift to Neutral. Regarding "Goosing", I had to do that with the DCT because at 1200 rpm with clutch not engage, you can just freely move the bike back and forth with no connection to (or resistance from) the transmission. I will update the Dealer with findings to see what he thinks about the path forward.
 
MtnBkr47 said:
That's an interesting difference between "Rocking the bike" and "Cycling key switch" since both methods will get the transmission into Neutral. I guess they both jolt the shift drum enough to allow the Shift to Neutral. Regarding "Goosing", I had to do that with the DCT because at 1200 rpm with clutch not engage, you can just freely move the bike back and forth with no connection to (or resistance from) the transmission. I will update the Dealer with findings to see what he thinks about the path forward.
Click to expand...
I see your point. With the DCT clutches disengaged, the movement of the rear wheel still rotates the countershaft sprocket, and if in gear, still rotates one of the input shafts. However, with the clutch(es) disengaged, you wouldn’t have much resistance to work against to jar anything free.

Again, this situation is abnormal, but a rare problem. Expect the typical dealer to try to talk their way out of the problem and make you go away. Making money off oil and tire changes is easier than doing it working on your bike’s transmission. They will not likely get any warranty money from Honda until it’s proven that there actually is a problem, and this problem may be difficult to pin down. Many dealers, even with the help of Honda technical support, seem to be ineffective when it comes to solving DCT problems. Some owners have resorted to fixing the DCT problems themselves because the dealer could not. Shift motors currently seem to be the biggest failure item.
 
Yea, they're good guys but there are practical limits. This little issue hasn't slowed me down at all, so I'm good either way unless it morphs into something else. Great Bike! The Mountains are calling.
 
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