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coolant change

So I would just look on the bottle and make sure it says "Good Quality" (not "bad quality")? Sorry, we need to be more specific than that. Use showkey's example above.

And no, tap water is not OK. That would also be an undefined variable. My tap water and yours may have totally different qualities.

It's very simple. Just follow what the service manual specifies.
 
I haven't the mileage to need to do mine, so I don't know for sure, but if there was a copper washer on that drain bolt (there should be, all of my other bikes have them) and you didn't put a new one on, keep a vague eye on it from time to time, just to make sure it isn't weeping.

99 times out of 100, it will be perfectly fine and it can probably be reused for lots of changes, but since it is a crush washer, there is always the slight chance of it not sealing optimally once used. It's maybe a bit of a nitpicky thing, but I figure I'd at least mention it. :)

Thanks man!

Yes, I notice a copper washer and no I didn't change it. but I been watching and make sure there is no drips of any kind. coolant level is correct after quite a few start and stop since I replace the coolant.
 
Where can I get the service manual for $20?


Not a new one at that price (legally) but maybe a used one on eBay or something, or a different aftermarket version, put out by Haynes/Clymer/etc. might be found.

Beware of prices too good to be true for a factory Helm manual sold at ridiculously cheap cost, or an electronic pdf version on cdrom. Those are both illegal and copyright infringements. Any hint of either will result in a ban from this forum, just so you know. ;)
 
Just a note: You will drain your radiator when you adjust your valves and replace almost all
Of your coolant when you do that. Yes you should als drain from the block but for me, I've done valves 3x by the time I hit 24k and odds are even the block will have new coolant in it by then. I won't do a solo-coolant drain.
 
The reason I change my coolant is because right before a trip from LA to page, Arizona recently; my coolant was a bit low and I have no coolant at home so I added some arrowhead drinking water. I added about 1/4, 1/3 16 oz of water to the reservoir.

Now that I am back, I want to change those out, beside it's a little over 2 years since I bought my bike.
 
I agree that if someone is in doubt, people must go for the manual recomendations. This technical paper below talks about the coolant liquid i use. It says: Mix with "clear water" in one of the lines. I agree the tap water may be different around the world, but this product can be used with tap water with no corrosion or danger, if the interval of change is up to 10.000 km.

http://www.br.com.br/wps/wcm/connec...t-lub-auto-fluidos-radiadores.pdf?MOD=AJPERES

below, a report from the brazilian testing institution (forgive my french). It says on page five the differences between the good qualities one and the bad coolants. The good quality product is REGULATED and has some kind of official certirfication in every coutry where is been sold. It also has the followings features: Has ethilene on its compositions, prevents freezing, prevents overheating and has anticorrosion action. All samples were tested mixed wit tap water.

http://www.inmetro.gov.br/consumidor/produtos/aditivo_radiadores.pdf

The one i use is the "A" one in the report. They test the anticorrosion action and the Ph (acidity action). The "A" is approved for all tests.

Regards.
 
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