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Drive chain maintenance

IIRC the recommended replacement mileage on the 800 cc belt driven BMWs is 24,000 miles. It's $426.00 for the belt. If you can't do it yourself it is a $635 bill to ride out of the dealer with a new belt.
 
The recommended replacement for my 2002 HD Sportster was 50,000 miles, which is why I used that figure. I think the figure is even higher now (for HD) Of course, rocks, debris, riding style, etc. will affect the lifespan of the belt.
 
I would opt for the belt if given a choice. Where I work, we have 100+ horse power motors that run 24/7 for multiple years.
 
Hi Lee, just a question

beemerphile said:
I use a maintenance lift with the front wheel strapped in a wheel chock and the rear lifted by a bottle jack.
Click to expand...

beemerphile said:
This gives you the full range of deflection. In this case, the correct 1-3/8".
Click to expand...

My spanish owner's manual says the range of deflection is between 30 and 40 mm, which matchs your measure. But it says to measure it while the bike is over the side stand, with both tires on the floor.

It seems to me you measured it with the rear lifted?

Or you did some research to find that the deflection is the same measured both ways?

BTW: nice tip in the Motion Pro tool, I ordered one
 
There is no suspension compression on mine with the bike on the side stand. If I straighten the bike unladen, I get about 1/2 inch. So, side stand, center stand, or maintenance lift should all be the same.
 
turbodieseli4i6 said:
I would opt for the belt if given a choice. Where I work, we have 100+ horse power motors that run 24/7 for multiple years.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I fail to see the comparison of a 24/7 running belt (assume constant pull and in a controlled environment), against a stop-go-speedup-muddy-dirty-dusty-wet-dry-brake-go-stop-go-speed-wheelie type of conditions for our final drive system in a motorcycle.

:p

Of course I am picking on the bones....

I don't think a belt-drive will make it more attractive to me. I prefer (personally) either a shaft-drive (like GS or all the 1200cc) or a normal steel chain system (simplicity, cheap to replace any part).
 
Having ridden bikes with shaft chain & belt drives. I would say that whilst shaft is my favourite I think that it's weight and the ammount of power that it saps would be too much for the NC. I really do think that a belt would be a good compromise
 
The only problem with a belt is when that tiny piece of rock takes a trip through the rear pulley and the belt is rent in twain. As I drive unpaved roads daily, I'd rather not have it. Some like the BMW F650CS have quite an elaborate system to shoo the debris off of the bottom strand, they have never seen fit to use the belt drive on the off-road capable machines.

I think the chain is a good choice for this bike, but an innovative enclosed chain running in oil would have been cute. Back to price point, I guess. My 2009 Yamaha TMax had a silent chain running in oil, but the later ones went to a belt. They claim better power transfer efficiency. On my dirt roads, I felt better with the enclosed drive. I may have been the only offroader on a TMax.
 
I had fully enclosed chain drive on my MZs. This worked very well. The problem is that today too many riders are more interested in how a bike looks rather that how efficent it is so manufactures are unlikely to built a bike with system
 
beemerphile said:
There is no suspension compression on mine with the bike on the side stand. If I straighten the bike unladen, I get about 1/2 inch. So, side stand, center stand, or maintenance lift should all be the same.
Click to expand...

FYI, I just adjust the chain. In my experience there is a small difference in the chain deflection if you measure it with the bike on the side stand or on the center stand. About 5 mm more on center stand. No probs, just adjust it to 40 mm on the center stand and then this will be 35 mm on the side stand, as the owner's manual request.

HTH
 
Right or wrong in my choice of chain lubes, I'm using Lucas 90/140 synthetic gear oil on a rag. Yes, it stinks, but at 600 mile intervals, which equates to every 3tanks of fuel, I'm thinking it's ok stuff.
 
Question:
I just did my 600 mile service (if I ever meet the gorilla who cranked on that oil filter...), including adjusting the chain.

I did it on the side stand, as I don't yet have a mainstand or any other way to get the rear wheel off the ground. This isn't my first chain drive bike, but first one without the mainstand. I follows the proper procedures on this thread (except I don't have the MotionPro alignment tool). I sighted down the chain and it looks straight.

The bike rides fine, but I am now hearing a whine from the drive train. I don't know if it's just me being paranoid and it was there the whole time, or if it is the chain. The whine is directly tied to the speed of the bike, not engine RPM. Nor does it material what the road surface is.

Is this a misaligned rear wheel? Or am I just paranoid?
 
If you're sure your rear wheel is aligned, and the chain slack is also ok, the noise could be because the different engine oil
 
I am mostly sure it's strait...

But the noise is not tied to engine RPM. If I pull in the clutch at 65mph, the noise stays constant until the bike slows/stops.

It sounds like a gear whining noise (so likely chain/sprockets)
 
draco_1967 said:
I am mostly sure it's strait...

But the noise is not tied to engine RPM. If I pull in the clutch at 65mph, the noise stays constant until the bike slows/stops.

It sounds like a gear whining noise (so likely chain/sprockets)
Click to expand...

Maybe you have your chain too tight? Did you check the tolerance again after hearing this noise?
 
I would re-check both the slack and the alignment. Without the MotionPro tool, you might try a straight edge located against the rear sprocket face. Did you use the screwdriver handle trick to assure that the adjusters were seated properly?
 
I just read this on ADVrider.


Quote:Honda announced a Stop Sell Notice on the NC700 today.

The issue is the drive chain on the bikes. All the bikes have to be inspected and if it has an D I D chain it is good to go.

If it has an RK chain it has to have RK and Japan stamped on it. Seems some have RK chains and they have failed.

My local dealer has two on the floor, one with an D I D chain and one with the RK chain.

If you have already purchased an NC700 check your chain and see what chain you have and call your dealer for info.

Okie Quote
 
Thanks for all the input.
Yesterday morning, before work, I checked the slack again, and it was 1 5/16", so I loosened it a bit. The noise is reduced, but still there. The alignment still looks good. My MotionPro alignment tool came in yesterday eve, so I will double check alignment today.
My Chain says DID Japan, so I think I am OK there. I will call the dealer today and find out what they know.
 
I checked chain allignment this morning with the MP tool. It was off by just a tiny bit. I straightened it out, and the noise is gone.

Thanks again for all the help!
 
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