NC700X DCT Won't Start

[Mi_ka]

+1
Also, did you notice any stress signs (sounds maybe or suspicious delays) from the gear selecting mechanism during this mishap? How much time did it take for each gear change as the engine was off?

 

[Fuzzy]

Wow, what was the situation that required you to use the Kill Switch in 6th gear?

I had just installed Go Cruise throttle lock. Cruising around 70 mph I adjusted the throttle lock and unknowingly bumped kill switch. 20 minutes on side of road with strangers having stopped to help before I noticed kill switch.

Gears had not changed as bike slowed down with key on showing "6" on dash. Multiple times turning ignition on and rocking bike worked it down through the gears.

 

[Mi_ka]

...unknowingly bumped kill switch...
Gears had not changed as bike slowed down with key on showing "6" on dash. Multiple times turning ignition on and rocking bike worked it down through the gears.

So the DCT gear selecting mechanism has to fight the same quirks as our feet when gears happen to be misaligned...
Any mentioning in the owner's manual?
When the engine stopped, did it coast down declutched neutral alike despite being in 6th?
(In typical scooter CVTs in such an occasion engine remains engaged until low travel speed that the centrifugal clutch disengages)

 

[Fuzzy]

It stayed in gear. I think when the stop switch is turned off all instructions to the DCT are ignored.

 

[Mi_ka]

That is good: Engine dying/sputtering due to whatever reason like bad fuel stays engaged causing less balance issues. I suppose this is so because the clutch control valves stay properly energized and oil pressure remains high as long as the engine continues rotating being run by vehicle inertia until very low speed at which it should disengage.

 

[ST13Fred]

The batteries in modern computer controlled vehicles require a FULL state of charge for all the sub systems to function properly.
My 04 ST13A battery was 6 yrs old when I replaced it. It still started OK but the clock would reboot to 1 AM a few minutes after I reset it to the correct time. New battery, problem solved.

I don't know my DCT very well yet, but when/if it will not start, I will put it on a charger right away to be sure the battery is at full song.

 

[7even]

So I went to turn on my NC700X DCT yesterday and it would not start. When I turn the ignition key, all is good, I get power to the system. When I flip the kill switch the fuel pump noise kicks in and I see the Gear Indicator change from "-" to "1". When I press the Starter Button... NADA. Not a peep, bleep, or meep. Almost as if the switch itself is dead. Tried a number of configurations. Visually inspected the Starter Relay (no marks that would indicate a short). Battery is up to full voltage. Bike ran perfectly when I drove it two days before that. Dealer is 15 miles away, so before I have to have it towed that far, I wanted to see if anyone can give me ideas what else to look for. Bike has 1,700 miles.

Never felt better to own two bikes, I must admit.

Rick

Here's my experience:

After buying the NC, in my first long trip, +- 2.000 km, while driving, the engine shut-off sudenly.

I pulled over, and try to check it out.



When turning the ignition on, I heard the Clutch trying repitably to put in neutral, but wasn´t able, so the computer gave up. I tried the starter, but it wont work.

So, I un-hoocked the batery, wait a whyle, plug it back, and try again. Nothing done!!



Then, I called my Honda dealer and explained the problem to the mecanic, it went to his books, and give me the code to reset the DCT.

Try it and still didn´t work.



In desper, 200 km away from home, I took a deap breath, and try it again: unpluged the baterry one more time, waited 10 minutes. Pluged it back, inserted the reset code once more, pray a bit, and ........

It worked!!!!



No more problems since.

 

[Midnight Rider]

7even, could you go into more detail about this reset code?

 

[lootzyan]

... detail about this reset code?...

This method is described in Service Manual
#12. DUAL CLUTCH TRANSMISSION (DCT) (NC700XD/SD),
§ CLUTCH INITIALIZE LEARNING (PCM)

 

[7even]

Midnight Rider, it´s very simple:



- Put the clutch in N, switch-off the engine.

- While pressing D, switch the ignition on, wait until the yellow symbol of the engine desapears in the dash-board, then let go D.

- Press in fast sequence: DDNDN.

- In the dash, the letters D and S should apeear at once.

- Turn on the engine, but don´t accelerate!

- After a few seconds, the letters D and S go out.



That´s it!! Reset done.

 

[kpinvt]

Midnight Rider, it´s very simple:



- Put the clutch in N, switch-off the engine.

- While pressing D, switch the ignition on, wait until the yellow symbol of the engine desapears in the dash-board, then let go D.

- Press in fast sequence: DDNDN.

- In the dash, the letters D and S should apeear at once.

- Turn on the engine, but don´t accelerate!

- After a few seconds, the letters D and S go out.



That´s it!! Reset done.

The instructions quoted above start on page 12-84 in the 2012 NC700X/XD Service Manual.

 

[jelo]

Maybe not be related - but I had a kickstand kill-switch that would cause the engine to stumble at times like it wasn't firing both cylinders, and intermittently kill the engine While-Riding - scary at Interstate speeds or in traffic. When I went to unbolt the switch to test it, it fell into pieces on the ground. I cut what was left of the switch off the harness and spliced the wires together - Not a single problem since then. I ordered a replacement switch but have yet to install it. Not sure if they wear out like that with 40,000+ miles or if something else caused it.

 

[misterk]

Maybe not be related - but I had a kickstand kill-switch that would cause the engine to stumble at times like it wasn't firing both cylinders, and intermittently kill the engine While-Riding - scary at Interstate speeds or in traffic. When I went to unbolt the switch to test it, it fell into pieces on the ground. I cut what was left of the switch off the harness and spliced the wires together - Not a single problem since then. I ordered a replacement switch but have yet to install it. Not sure if they wear out like that with 40,000+ miles or if something else caused it.

I did I the same thing, I have the new switch in a box, but never have mounted it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Midnight Rider]

Great, thanks for the sequence and page numbers!!

 

[Chucky]

I have been using my 750 commuter every single day since brand new 2yrs ago and just the other day I got on my bike to go to work and experienced exactly the same problem.
Everything boots up, hit the starter and nothing, zero, zilch.
Tried for about 15 minutes then gave up and took my car to work and from there I was away camping for 2 weeks.

This morning I put the battery on charge for just over 2hrs until fully charged. Bike started 1st time. Old OEM battery.

Thank goodness it wasn't something expensively serious.

And thanx to this forum and everyone with their insight and help, much appreciated.

 

[TheIronWarrior]

Midnight Rider, it´s very simple:



- Put the clutch in N, switch-off the engine.

- While pressing D, switch the ignition on, wait until the yellow symbol of the engine desapears in the dash-board, then let go D.

- Press in fast sequence: DDNDN.

- In the dash, the letters D and S should apeear at once.

- Turn on the engine, but don´t accelerate!

- After a few seconds, the letters D and S go out.



That´s it!! Reset done.

Up, Up, Down, Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, B, A, Start.
No, wait, that was something else...

 

[FezUSA]

Up, Up, Down, Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, B, A, Start.
No, wait, that was something else...

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[tallman]

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[ST13Fred]

Glad you traced the problem to a simple battery charge.
All the electronics on modern vehicles seem to require a fully charged battery. Anything less than 12V seems to upset the electron gremlins.

Now------the last 2 posts have me a little frightened. What the hey are you talking about?!

 

[Chucky]

Glad you traced the problem to a simple battery charge.
All the electronics on modern vehicles seem to require a fully charged battery. Anything less than 12V seems to upset the electron gremlins.

Now------the last 2 posts have me a little frightened. What the hey are you talking about?!

LOL I have no idea at all
I have a spare 12v LCD battery voltage reader somewhere and will install it this weekend. Will also alert me if the battery ever starts over charging (faulty stater etc).