NGK spark plug

[670cc]

New spark plugs for my NC after 48000km.

Put the old ones back and go another 48000 km. The Honda recommended change interval on these is too short, IMO. Even NGK says they'll go a lot longer.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

So they can go more than 48000km?

They look very good to me. Thanks for posting the comparison pics. If mine are like that at the same mileage, they will go back in.

 

[lootzyan]

So they can go more than 48000km?

If manual says to replace spark plugs after 48000 km, so do it.
Most of the time problem with spark plugs is not what you see but what you don't see - microcracks of insulator casing part of spark current to be shunted to the ground, lowering energy of ignition spark.
Without diagnostic is no way to know it.

 

[rippin209]

I have no problem believing these plugs. I do think the original plugs can do around 100,000 miles. I have somewhat simular plugs in my auto that do not even require a change to 98,000 miles. My daughter put 130,000 miles on her auto plugs.

wow that's amazing I thought they topped out at 60k, to last over 100k makes charging $40 or more per plug allot more justified

 

[Gigs]

Alright so I ordered the plugs from my dealer weeks ago, maybe a few months. Got them today and put them in. My bike has 37500 miles on it with original plugs. Absolutely no running issues at all. I am just trying to follow maintenance schedule. I took some pics. They seem fine to me. I even saved them incase something goes wrong. I used some temp antisieze and the bike seems just as it did before. Fires right up and sounds the same. We will see on my way to work in the morning. I also did the air filter which was overdue because it was also not in stock. It had one small dark spot on it where the air comes in. I think this bike is a bit over maintained. Just some thoughts.

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[670cc]

I agree, Gigs. Your pics don't show any erosion of the electrodes. Did the gap measure the same on the new vs the old?

NGK says in general terms on their Web site that this particular plug type should last something like 60,000-80,000 miles.

Thanks for posting the pictures!

 

[Gigs]

I don't have a special wire gap gauge the manual calls for just some feeler gauges it says not to use on the new ones. I guess I'll go measure the old ones. They were tighter than 1.1mm as required


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[Beemerphile]

I used some temp antisieze and the bike seems just as it did before.

NGK recommends against anti-sieze for their spark plugs. Once anti-sieze has been used some of it remains in the cylinder threads and can affect proper torque requirements in the future.

Here is some info from them on the subject...

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/NGK_TB-0630111antisieze.pdf

 

[Gigs]

Unfortunately it's already done. I was quite careful and used as little as I thought it needed. Thanks for the link though.


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[Beemerphile]

Unfortunately it's already done. I was quite careful and used as little as I thought it needed. Thanks for the link though.

Nothing to be done about it now, but these discussions exist also for the benefit of those who follow. I would suggest that the next time the plugs are removed (valve adjustment probably) that you take a cotton swab soaked with brake cleaner and attempt to clean the threads in the cylinder head of residual anti-sieze. This will help keep future plug torques from being greater than intended.

 

[Gigs]

Sounds good. Thanks.


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[MZ5]

My suggestion for a simpler and more accurate way to deal with spark plug tightening, regardless whether you use anti-seize (or anything else) or not, is to follow the installation procedure in the owner's manual. In the 2012 American-market manual, it's on page 75. Here's the procedure:

8. With the plug washers attached, thread the spark plugs in by hand to prevent cross-threading.
9. Tighten each spark plug:

*If the old plug is good:
-1/8 turn after it seats

*If installing a new plug, tighten it twice to prevent loosening:
a) First, tighten the plug:
NGK: 2/3 turn after it seats.
b) Then loosen the plug.
c) Next, tighten the plug again:
1/8 turn after it seats.

This procedure, often called angle control or angle turn, takes both thread and bearing surface torques out of the fastener tensioning (tightening) process.

Here are a couple of articles that I find fairly readable, which elaborate on fastener tensioning:
Fastening: The Truth About TORQUE and TENSION
Fastening Threads: Torque Control vs. Angle Control

 

[normanlai]

I was looking for good iridium plugs, and i cannot understand the E and T between these two. all the measurements tell me they can be used. but can they? The E is easily available off ebay, the T cost more due to shipping.

The original honda, easily cost double locally. The manual says iridium so i'm not keen on the BKR6E. besides its just a few dollars every 50k which is 1 year for me.

the bkr6eix (iridium) is the same price as IFR, but the IFR series is double the lifespan at same price (ebay)

IFR6E-11

Shell

Thread Size: 14mm
Thread Pitch: 1.25mm
Seat Type: Gasket
Resistor: Yes
Resistor Value: 5K Ohm
Reach: 19mm (3/4")
Hex Size: 5/8" (16mm)
Terminal Type: Solid
Overall Height: ISO
Gap: .043" (1.1mm)
Torque Specs: Cast Iron: 18-25.3 lb. ft. Aluminum: 18-21.6 lb. ft.
Brand: NGK
Heat Range: 6
Longevity: 80-100k




IFR6T-11

Shell

Thread Size: 14mm
Thread Pitch: 1.25mm
Seat Type: Gasket
Resistor: Yes
Resistor Value: 5K Ohm
Reach: 19mm (3/4")
Hex Size: 5/8" (16mm)
Terminal Type: Solid
Overall Height: ISO
Gap: .043" (1.1mm)
Torque Specs: Cast Iron: 18-25.3 lb. ft. Aluminum: 18-21.6 lb. ft.
Brand: NGK
Heat Range: 6



https://www.ngk.de/en/technology-in-detail/spark-plugs/how-you-crack-the-ngk-code/

thank you in advance!

 

[ste7ios]

Just stick exactly to the specified by Honda spark plug: NGK IFR6G-11K (or an exact replacement from other manufacturers. Check their cross-reference tables).

From my findings this particular spark plug is used ONLY on NC series and Honda Civic. A good reason for its price & rarity...

Also be aware that there are fakes.

 

[treybrad]

For what it's worth, I picked up a pair of these at my local auto parts store for around $6 each.

https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9331

BKR6EIX-11 , or you can use the regular BKR6E-11 like many are using for a little less still.

I'm all ears if there's an actual negative impact of using these alternatives, but based on what I've researched an how the bike runs, they seem to be an acceptable, lower cost option.

trey

*edit* Looks like RuggyBuggy beat me to it way back on post #65, 2 years ago! http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-technical/5987-ngk-spark-plug-post99540.html#post99540

 

[670cc]

The way I see it, I'll run the original iridium plugs until at least 64,000 miles, as they are designed to do, then after that switch to the ones treybrad mentioned (BKR6E), which I have 2 left over from my Goldwing set of 8, and run another 32,000 miles. By then I'm not likely to even own this bike anymore, so the whole spark plug thing is kind of a non issue.

 

[Beemerphile]

...so the whole spark plug thing is kind of a non issue.

It is a non-issue regarding cost whether you keep the bike or not. Here is a discounted source of the specified plug...

NGK Spark Plugs IFR6G-11K, NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plugs | NGK Spark Plugs

If you changed them every 30,000 miles (crazy, I know) then your cost is nine one-hundredths of a cent per mile. You could cut the cost in half (still using the specified plugs) by running them until the electrodes showed wear as described in the service manual.

As far as whether the specified plug is "required", we have ample proof that it is not. The "G" and "K" feature descriptors identify special attributes of the plug that we do not have the information to identify. The theories about this range from "small differences" that either do or don't matter to assertions that they are the same as plugs with similar part numbers and it is a devious plot by Honda/NGK to part us from our money. I don't see a Japanese company pulling this tactic. I wouldn't put it past the Germans though. Regardless, from a practical (non-ethical) perspective, it doesn't seem to generate enough money to be worth the potential damage to an honorable reputation.

So, my decision is to blow the 9/100 of a cent per mile and give my baby the factory diet at the specified feeding intervals..

 

[normanlai]

It is a non-issue regarding cost whether you keep the bike or not. Here is a discounted source of the specified plug...

NGK Spark Plugs IFR6G-11K, NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plugs | NGK Spark Plugs

If you changed them every 30,000 miles (crazy, I know) then your cost is nine one-hundredths of a cent per mile. You could cut the cost in half (still using the specified plugs) by running them until the electrodes showed wear as described in the service manual.

As far as whether the specified plug is "required", we have ample proof that it is not. The "G" and "K" feature descriptors identify special attributes of the plug that we do not have the information to identify. The theories about this range from "small differences" that either do or don't matter to assertions that they are the same as plugs with similar part numbers and it is a devious plot by Honda/NGK to part us from our money. I don't see a Japanese company pulling this tactic. I wouldn't put it past the Germans though. Regardless, from a practical (non-ethical) perspective, it doesn't seem to generate enough money to be worth the potential damage to an honorable reputation.

So, my decision is to blow the 9/100 of a cent per mile and give my baby the factory diet at the specified feeding intervals..

thank you and others for the opinions. My problem is, my dealer carry the original at really high price and incredibly, they go out of stock. i guess i will try my best to get the BKR. The site is useful but i also need free or cheap shipping to my country. the original plug is not cheap to ship, somehow

 

[Samurai]

This spark plug thing Honda has going really for some reason just got to me. I am sorry, but I will not get ripped off for $30 for a spark plug.

Even the auto parts stores can not get the IFR6G-11K plug. This plug is listed by NGK as a dealer order plug only. So no one but a Honda dealership can obtain this plug. Honda is NGK biggest customer, and they have a monopoly on this plug. If you are on the road, and this plug goes south on you, you just can not get another plug. Very few Honda dealerships keep this plug in stock because of the price, and the dealership has to buy a full case of these plugs.

I have a friend who gave me some big help here, and for obvious reasons I can not mention their name. The good news is you can get another NGK plug that will do the same job, and all is exact with heat range and length. This plug is an NGK and can be bought at any auto parts store for less than $2.50. All measurement and heat ranges are exact, and it is a NGK plug. The difference is the material used in the Spark Plug Diode, and Honda's monopoly. Honda states in the owners manual to change the spark plug at 32,000 miles with the Iridium diode spark plug. NGK states change to this other spark plug at 32,000 miles with the copper/nickel diode spark plug. Yes, I can purchase the BKR6E-11 NGK plug everywhere, even on the road at any parts house. NGK part number 2756. So, 2X30 = $60 /or/ 2X2.5 = $5. If nothing else write the number BKR6E-11 and NGK part number 2756 in your owners manual, you could need it someday when on the road. Guess what spark plug I now run in my bike..........

You just save me 60 dollar in spark plugs, greatly appreciate it, Thanks

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[ste7ios]

Strangely the NC platform is not included in the official U.S. NGK site, neither the plug. But you can find them in other U.S. online stores for $11, cheaper than E.U...