Josh H
New Member
Whoops!! I guess I better get to reading the return policy!
Recommended Chain,Sprocket, and Costs
- Thread starter The_Drifter
- Start date
Whoops!! I guess I better get to reading the return policy!
MZ5
Well-Known Member
Sorry, Josh H. The info I posted is correct. Only reason I didn't specify how many links I wanted was that I figured the dealer's resources would give him good info. Not so! Count the links in your chain if you like; you need 114.
L18flyboy
New Member
Safety wire on clip master link
I changed the chain on my Ninja 250 today and took a few pictures to show how to safety wire the master
link clip.
Here you see the clip installed. The closed end of the clip is installed to point in the direction the chain will normally rotate. So in this case left is the front of the bike and this is the top of the chain which will move to the left when the bike is moving.
This is .038" aircraft safety wire. This shows the first of two loops going around the plate and clip.
Now the second loop has been passed through the link.
These are "safety wire pliers". They clamp on to the ends of the wire like vise-grips. The round silver knob at the very bottom of the picture is pulled which rotates the pliers to twist the wire. These get used a lot on the airplane to secure the oil filter and other bits that you don't want to lose in flight.
The pliers twist the wire which takes out the slack and secures the ends of the wire together. Excess wire is clipped off.
Finally you bend the wire flush with the link pointing aft.
This can be done with normal pliers, but it is easier and tends to look much nicer using the safety wire pliers. Now I just have to remember to take them back up to the hangar...
I changed the chain on my Ninja 250 today and took a few pictures to show how to safety wire the master
link clip.
Here you see the clip installed. The closed end of the clip is installed to point in the direction the chain will normally rotate. So in this case left is the front of the bike and this is the top of the chain which will move to the left when the bike is moving.
This is .038" aircraft safety wire. This shows the first of two loops going around the plate and clip.
Now the second loop has been passed through the link.
These are "safety wire pliers". They clamp on to the ends of the wire like vise-grips. The round silver knob at the very bottom of the picture is pulled which rotates the pliers to twist the wire. These get used a lot on the airplane to secure the oil filter and other bits that you don't want to lose in flight.
The pliers twist the wire which takes out the slack and secures the ends of the wire together. Excess wire is clipped off.
Finally you bend the wire flush with the link pointing aft.
This can be done with normal pliers, but it is easier and tends to look much nicer using the safety wire pliers. Now I just have to remember to take them back up to the hangar...
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I've had them on my old bikes for years and never had one fell out.
years ago my old T500J produce 47 bhp and they had these type of link fitted.
so I would've thought it should be fine for the NC.
years ago my old T500J produce 47 bhp and they had these type of link fitted.
so I would've thought it should be fine for the NC.
StratTuner
Site Supporter
Flyboy, that was a nice piece of engineering! Simple, cheap, effective.
StratTuner
Site Supporter
I'll make sure my mechaic knows that. 114 for standard tansmission. (or transamission as Johnny Cash sang in "one piece at a time")
I requested a rivet master link. I'll check with my mechanic and see which he likes to work with.
The best part about doing this all at 16K (not 20K miles) when I planned to is that I have a working bike and can get it all taken care of ahead of time!
I requested a rivet master link. I'll check with my mechanic and see which he likes to work with.
The best part about doing this all at 16K (not 20K miles) when I planned to is that I have a working bike and can get it all taken care of ahead of time!
Safety wire is also sometimes used instead of a clip so there is no danger of it getting fouled by the sprockets or debris...
All of which reinforces my preference for the simplicity and security of a riveted link.
All of which reinforces my preference for the simplicity and security of a riveted link.
StratTuner
Site Supporter
I'm going RIVET just because it appeals to my sense of security better than the clip. That's just my choice...
I don't know enough to comment on the chain/rivet debate intelligently.
I don't know enough to comment on the chain/rivet debate intelligently.
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In the end, it's all about what makes you feel the most confident with the best informed choice you decide to make, that's what counts!
Here is a DID master link failure.. DID Master Link Clip failure... - ADVrider Not trying to start any arguments but it does happen.
StratTuner
Site Supporter
the local "Cycle Gear" shop had a 520 rivet link ($7), and a Chain Riveting/breaking tool ($40). When my new chain came, I learned how to put on a rivet master.
It was worth it.
Sprocket Center called me yesterday and said the front sprockets just got in. Chad said they would be here by Friday.
I'm happy you are set up finally!
I'm happy you are set up finally!
StratTuner
Site Supporter
Sprocket Center seems like a good company. Very friendly.
They would do better to NOT sell items they don't have in stock. Making folks wait so long probably isn't a good thing.
They would do better to NOT sell items they don't have in stock. Making folks wait so long probably isn't a good thing.
I did a search and read most of this thread and did not see anything about this, so if it is a re-peat, don't hate me. I just purchased the 39 tooth rear sprocket and put it on my manual NC700. First to dispel the rumor that the NC does not have enough power to pull that gear. It does and it actually feels faster. First and second always seemed to run out to fast for my liking and this gives you a little extra time to get going before your shift. I took the bike down the interstate and although at 75 my tach read the same, with the gaps in the indicator changes I feel like it made about 150 RPM difference. Although that doesn't sound like much it felt like the bike was a little more at ease. I had my girl on the back and there was no loss of acceleration at any speed. I would recommend this sprocket to those who like to lug the bike like me. At 45 it was just putting along. That is my two cents.
Mr_Krabs
New Member
Keep in mind the speedometer reads from the engine on the NC unlike cable speedometers which read from the front wheel. So Since you changed the gearing your actual speed will be higher than indicated and your odometer will also be reading less miles than actually traveled. Take a GPS and find out the difference and you can see just how much RPM is truly reduced, It won't be much anyways since when changing gears it's always a percentage reduction and low RPM's means less RPM change per percentage point reduction. But I've generally found on motorcycles that you get nearly the same percentage mpg increase as RPM percentage reduction up to about 15-20% beyond that tends to take the engine out of it's powerband and you get no further increases in mpg for increased gear reduction.
I realized several things that I overlooked in my thought process that Mr.Krabs hit right on the head. Feeling a little stupid now. I used to work on these things for a living. I will get out my GPS tomorrow and find out what kind of change I am actually seeing. I rode about 60 more miles today and for what it is worth my but dyno and optimistic yet biased "feel" is that the sprocket made a noticeable difference and the desired lug effect was achieved. I will report back with some factual information soon.
I will get out my GPS tomorrow and find out what kind of change I am actually seeing. I rode about 60 more miles today and for what it is worth my but dyno and optimistic yet biased "feel" is that the sprocket made a noticeable difference and the desired lug effect was achieved. I will report back with some factual information soon.
So I used my GPS today and found that with the new 39 tooth rear sprocket my bike actually dropped an estimated 400 rpm's in top gear at 75 mph. I was going about 5 mph faster than the speedo on the bike indicated at 75. I did not do a control run with the old sprocket so this is only an estimate but I think I am pretty close. I noticed right away that it felt way different and I think this is a pretty big change. It is almost like having an extra gear. I still feel like the torque of this bike was under-utilized with the 43 tooth rear sprocket and with the 39 the bike has not lost any acceleration, and it actually feels like it pulls harder for longer. This is all my opinion, but I would recommend it.
Hammy
New Member
Does anyone have a source for 39T rear sprockets? I have the DCT model and I can't find anything aside from OEM. Sprocket Center only has kits for the manual model (43T rear).
Hammy
Hammy
Antarius
Site Supporter
Nope, I just purchased an OEM sprocket.
Heavy-H
Member
I ordered a chain from them and it arrived in like three days..................... so pretty...................
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