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Which motor oil do you suggest?

And more importantly, the viscosity is supposed to be 30, not 40. The 10W designation is viscosity when cold, which doesn't mean much for motorcycles. When it is below freezing out, people generally don't ride bikes :cool:

Somehow I missed that memo this past winter. I can say at 25F the tranny is a bit stiffer than when warmer.

I guess I missed that memo also last winter, since I rode home when it was 9*F.
 
Did my first oil change today. 687 miles. For lack of a readily available (better) alternative, I went with the Rotella T6.

I was thinking the lower cowling came off with a Philips screwdriver. Wrong. I had already drained the oil out and couldnt get the cowling off because I didn't have a Torx driver big enough.

But, I was able to get to the filter without taking it off. So I did the whole oil and filter change without taking the cowling off.

Once I gave up on hunting down a Torx driver, I tried to get the filter off. The thing was on so tight that it wouldn't budge. My oil filter wrench is made out of plastic, and it was so tight that it expanded enough to skip a notch. I was suprised it didnt break the wrench. I cannot imagine they tightened it that much at the factory. I needed either a metal cap wrench of one of those strap type wrenches, but didn't have either one in the garage. The new filter I put on the way I always have ... the rubber seal lubricated for easy turning, then as tight as possible by hand. The rubber will seal perfectly that way, and it will still be possible to get the thing off next time. I have never had a leak before.

Also checked MPG today. Riding like a maniac most of the time and still getting 69 MPG. Not too bad. Maybe i will try to keep it under 60 MPH this tank and see how good it gets.

After googling for rotella T6 I found several forums where people claimed that their vehicles got lower MPG after switching to Rotella. And of course, I found one thread on a different bike forum where a guy claimed he got a big boost in MPG after switching to Rotella.
 
Did my first oil change today. 687 miles. For lack of a readily available (better) alternative, I went with the Rotella T6.

I was thinking the lower cowling came off with a Philips screwdriver. Wrong. I had already drained the oil out and couldnt get the cowling off because I didn't have a Torx driver big enough.

But, I was able to get to the filter without taking it off. So I did the whole oil and filter change without taking the cowling off.

Once I gave up on hunting down a Torx driver, I tried to get the filter off. The thing was on so tight that it wouldn't budge. My oil filter wrench is made out of plastic, and it was so tight that it expanded enough to skip a notch. I was suprised it didnt break the wrench. I cannot imagine they tightened it that much at the factory. I needed either a metal cap wrench of one of those strap type wrenches, but didn't have either one in the garage. The new filter I put on the way I always have ... the rubber seal lubricated for easy turning, then as tight as possible by hand. The rubber will seal perfectly that way, and it will still be possible to get the thing off next time. I have never had a leak before.

Also checked MPG today. Riding like a maniac most of the time and still getting 69 MPG. Not too bad. Maybe i will try to keep it under 60 MPH this tank and see how good it gets.

After googling for rotella T6 I found several forums where people claimed that their vehicles got lower MPG after switching to Rotella. And of course, I found one thread on a different bike forum where a guy claimed he got a big boost in MPG after switching to Rotella.
I'm thinking it is a 5 mm Allen bit or wrench you need to remove the fairing fasteners.
 
Did my first oil change today. 687 miles. For lack of a readily available (better) alternative, I went with the Rotella T6.

I was thinking the lower cowling came off with a Philips screwdriver. Wrong. I had already drained the oil out and couldnt get the cowling off because I didn't have a Torx driver big enough.

But, I was able to get to the filter without taking it off. So I did the whole oil and filter change without taking the cowling off.

Once I gave up on hunting down a Torx driver, I tried to get the filter off. The thing was on so tight that it wouldn't budge. My oil filter wrench is made out of plastic, and it was so tight that it expanded enough to skip a notch. I was suprised it didnt break the wrench. I cannot imagine they tightened it that much at the factory. I needed either a metal cap wrench of one of those strap type wrenches, but didn't have either one in the garage. The new filter I put on the way I always have ... the rubber seal lubricated for easy turning, then as tight as possible by hand. The rubber will seal perfectly that way, and it will still be possible to get the thing off next time. I have never had a leak before.

Also checked MPG today. Riding like a maniac most of the time and still getting 69 MPG. Not too bad. Maybe i will try to keep it under 60 MPH this tank and see how good it gets.

After googling for rotella T6 I found several forums where people claimed that their vehicles got lower MPG after switching to Rotella. And of course, I found one thread on a different bike forum where a guy claimed he got a big boost in MPG after switching to Rotella.

You should get one of these: Amazon.com: Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool: Automotive

It's the BEST oil filter wrench I've used so far, and I've tried several different kinds.
 
I'm thinking it is a 5 mm Allen bit or wrench you need to remove the fairing fasteners.

When I read your message I went out to double check. UR right, its an allen. I could have sworn earlier it looked like a torx. I think I still had my prescription sunglasses on.
 
When I read your message I went out to double check. UR right, its an allen. I could have sworn earlier it looked like a torx. I think I still had my prescription sunglasses on.

Those Allens have very shallow sockets. Be sure to use a flat-end Allen key and not a ball driver or you will strip them.
 
Those Allens have very shallow sockets. Be sure to use a flat-end Allen key and not a ball driver or you will strip them.

Truth
I've never seen such shallow sockets on Allen fasteners. To use a ball-end key almost certainly results in grief with these little guys :eek:
 
You should get one of these: Amazon.com: Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool: Automotive

It's the BEST oil filter wrench I've used so far, and I've tried several different kinds.

Description looks great, I would have ordered one, but recent reviewers say they got sent some cheap Chinese junk that didn't match the description. I'm amazon prime member so I get free 2nd day shipping, buy a lot from there. But returning things is a nuisance and with this item there is obviously a problem as more than one reviewer claims to have received a different item. I think maybe I will look for a metal cap type filter next time i go to a store.

Anyway now that I have a new filter on properly tightened, the wrench I have really should do. I got the Honda filter off by taking a no-twist clamp, placing it over the wrench while on the filter and tightening until i could feel it collapsing the filter just a little. That gave the cheapo plastic filter cap enough grip to do it.
 
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Description looks great, I would have ordered one, but recent reviewers say they got sent some cheap Chinese junk that didn't match the description. I'm amazon prime member so I get free 2nd day shipping, buy a lot from there. But returning things is a nuisance and with this item there is obviously a problem as more than one reviewer claims to have received a different item. I think maybe I will look for a metal cap type filter next time i go to a store.

Anyway now that I have a new filter on properly tightened, the wrench I have really should do. I got the Honda filter off by taking a no-twist clamp, placing it over the wrench while on the filter and tightening until i could feel it collapsing the filter just a little. That gave the cheapo plastic filter cap enough grip to do it.

I use Prime too. I've seen this model filter wrench in some auto parts stores too. Could get one there and have a store to deal with for returns as opposed to having to ship it back.
 
I think a great many of us had to skewer the factory filter with a large screwdriver to remove it, so you did quite well, JohnnyD!
 
Description looks great, I would have ordered one, but recent reviewers say they got sent some cheap Chinese junk that didn't match the description. I'm amazon prime member so I get free 2nd day shipping, buy a lot from there. But returning things is a nuisance and with this item there is obviously a problem as more than one reviewer claims to have received a different item. I think maybe I will look for a metal cap type filter next time i go to a store.

Anyway now that I have a new filter on properly tightened, the wrench I have really should do. I got the Honda filter off by taking a no-twist clamp, placing it over the wrench while on the filter and tightening until i could feel it collapsing the filter just a little. That gave the cheapo plastic filter cap enough grip to do it.


For the first time ever, when I went in to a Honda dealer to buy my NC's first oil filter, the parts guy asked if I wanted the filter and wrench "combo" package. I had never thought to ask about an OEM filter wrench, I've never needed one in the past.

But I had read several reports here of the uber tight filter, and some difficulty in getting it off initially. I took this to heart, although I've rarely ever had an issue with this particular task. I sprung for the combo package, the wrench added about $10 or 15 dollars to the filter and crush washer cost.

To back myself up in case of a reeeeeally stubborn filter, I added a cheater extension pipe to my socket wrench, just to be sure. After all that, my filter nearly spun off before I could even put the socket on the filter, lol. Finger tight at best, mine was! Typical.

The Honda wrench is a metal end-cap style deal with a nut welded on the end. There is an accompanying hole straight through, so you can poke the filter with a stick to get it out of the wrench in case it ever got stuck.

I give it a good recommendation, even if it's more costly than some others. :)
 
For the first time ever, when I went in to a Honda dealer to buy my NC's first oil filter, the parts guy asked if I wanted the filter and wrench "combo" package. I had never thought to ask about an OEM filter wrench, I've never needed one in the past.

But I had read several reports here of the uber tight filter, and some difficulty in getting it off initially. I took this to heart, although I've rarely ever had an issue with this particular task. I sprung for the combo package, the wrench added about $10 or 15 dollars to the filter and crush washer cost.

To back myself up in case of a reeeeeally stubborn filter, I added a cheater extension pipe to my socket wrench, just to be sure. After all that, my filter nearly spun off before I could even put the socket on the filter, lol. Finger tight at best, mine was! Typical.

The Honda wrench is a metal end-cap style deal with a nut welded on the end. There is an accompanying hole straight through, so you can poke the filter with a stick to get it out of the wrench in case it ever got stuck.

I give it a good recommendation, even if it's more costly than some others. :)

Too funny. I had the same experience. I had read all of the stories about the filter being installed by Godzilla. I've always used the end cap version, but was planning on using a screwdriver if necessary. Lo and behold, it came off easy peasy. Apparently Godzilla took the day of when my bike was assembled... :)

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD
 
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