• A few people have been scammed on the site, Only use paypal to pay for items for sale by other members. If they will not use paypal, its likely a scam NEVER SEND E-TRANSFERS OF ANY KIND.

2018: What did you do to/with your NC700 today?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Pyramid rear hugger and rain test in my garden :)
2 minutes work...

[video=youtube_share;CtAucorwuUs]https://youtu.be/CtAucorwuUs[/video]
 
Last edited:
Took the afternoon off to ride up SC 130, NC 281 and 107 to Highlands NC then south on 28 back to Seneca SC.
0469f1a613e52e12de16732a75c9eafd.jpg


Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 
As a follow-up to Page 16, Post #153, I guess I'm thru with the "rear shelf" mod........cut-out a little pivoting door to cover the fuel cap, and then painted the whole thing, rattlecan, did not come out as "clean" as I had hoped, but what the heck, it's gonna get all scratched up anyway with a bag on top or milk crate (yes, I owned a KLR650 in a previous life). I thought about adding "slots" in the sides, but the grab rails are right there, why not just use them?

P2240036.jpgP2240037.jpgP2240038.jpgP2240039.jpgP2240040.jpg
 
As a follow-up to Page 16, Post #153, I guess I'm thru with the "rear shelf" mod........cut-out a little pivoting door to cover the fuel cap, and then painted the whole thing, rattlecan, did not come out as "clean" as I had hoped, but what the heck, it's gonna get all scratched up anyway with a bag on top or milk crate (yes, I owned a KLR650 in a previous life). I thought about adding "slots" in the sides, but the grab rails are right there, why not just use them?

View attachment 35738View attachment 35739View attachment 35740View attachment 35741View attachment 35742

Looks pretty good
 
Not really done to my NC, but will be enhancing my experience on her. I finally broke down and got some proper boots (had some others, but they were definitely not waterproof in any way). This was an upgrade I spent a lot of time looking at and talking to people about.

ADVENTURE LOW
– Forma Boots

I have these boots and love them. Took a little while to break them in (short walks to/from bike were fine, stairs were another matter the first few weeks!).
 
Last September I had added highway pegs, and found that there was a lot of wind making my pants flap.
So, I made these to try to push the wind a different way.IMG_1483.jpgIMG_1484.jpg

And, for some reason when I post pictures to the forum, they often rotate. Any help for this? I can't see how to rotate them back to correct orientation.
 
Last edited:
Last September I had added highway pegs, and found that there was a lot of wind making my pants flap.
So, I made these to try to push the wind a

Fixt [emoji1360]
ecdc9d23ae7f5a8678ac3467d365c589.jpg
8afad645096dfa73645ebc0072c887b3.jpg
 
This is way off topic, but I noticed you might, and I say might, have another example supporting my theory that mounting the lightest part of the tire at the valve stem (supposedly the heaviest point), as they say, it not good universal advice. The wheel should be tested for its heaviest point before mounting the tire. If the weights end up all being added near the stem, it suggests the the stem area might have actually been the lightest point on the wheel, not the heaviest.

Three out of four tires mounted on my Goldwing by dealers or factory had all the weights adjacent to the stem. When I mount them and test the wheel for its actual heaviest point first, that’s not the case, and I also end up needing to attach less weight.

Isn't there a dot on the tire to tell you what point should go at the valve stem.
 

This is way off topic, but I noticed you might, and I say might, have another example supporting my theory that mounting the lightest part of the tire at the valve stem (supposedly the heaviest point), as they say, it not good universal advice. The wheel should be tested for its heaviest point before mounting the tire. If the weights end up all being added near the stem, it suggests the the stem area might have actually been the lightest point on the wheel, not the heaviest.

Three out of four tires mounted on my Goldwing by dealers or factory had all the weights adjacent to the stem. When I mount them and test the wheel for its actual heaviest point first, that’s not the case, and I also end up needing to attach less weight.
 
Isn't there a dot on the tire to tell you what point should go at the valve stem.

This is way off topic, but I noticed you might, and I say might, have another example supporting my theory that mounting the lightest part of the tire at the valve stem (supposedly the heaviest point), as they say, it not good universal advice. The wheel should be tested for its heaviest point before mounting the tire. If the weights end up all being added near the stem, it suggests the the stem area might have actually been the lightest point on the wheel, not the heaviest.

Three out of four tires mounted on my Goldwing by dealers or factory had all the weights adjacent to the stem. When I mount them and test the wheel for its actual heaviest point first, that’s not the case, and I also end up needing to attach less weight.

How did my quote of you post before your post? Did I just perform magic?
 
Isn't there a dot on the tire to tell you what point should go at the valve stem.

Yes, there is a dot on the tire (not all tires) that indicates the lightest point of the tire. It should go at the heaviest spot on the wheel. But that’s what I’m trying to point out. More often than not, the heaviest point in NOT at the valve stem. I have checked the balance of four different bare NC700X wheels, and only one had the heavy spot even near the valve stem. So putting the dot on the tire at the valve stem is doing it wrong more often than not. Solution: find the actual heavy point on the wheel before you mount your tire, and put the dot there. Then you will be that much closer to being balanced before you add any balance weights. It’s possible you won’t need weights.
 
Removed the rear wheel bearings today. I bought a cheap blind bearing puller...so cheap that I could strip the threads on the puller portion :( Got them out using the method in this post.
I enjoyed that guy's video. Just for reference, how many miles did you have on the old bearings? Was it just wear or did something else happen?
 
I enjoyed that guy's video. Just for reference, how many miles did you have on the old bearings? Was it just wear or did something else happen?

I got 39k km which is about 24k miles. I wouldn't say that it wore out. My opinion is that water got behind the seal on the disc side and caused rusting of the bearing. The sprocket side was in perfect condition.
 
Today I replaced all the bulb lights with LED.

Front is a Cyclops 7000 lumen and the turn signals are 1156 and 1157 bulbs from super brightleds.com

I got a relay replacement from eBay.
Ordered both the clear and the smoke lenses, still waiting on those.

f44f4501efd2ae0844ad1ef28edcaf1b.jpg


Spare parts:
8fddee065cc6c7f8059553b700743c6a.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I enjoyed that guy's video. Just for reference, how many miles did you have on the old bearings? Was it just wear or did something else happen?
I've got 69,000+ miles on my 2013 NC. I don't wash it or go off pavement but I do ride in the rain and I'm still all original bearings
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top