Drive chain maintenance

[Beemerphile]

Owners manual and sticker on my chain guard specify the slack 1.2" - 1.6".

Also states, Do not ride your motorcycle if the slack
exceeds 60 mm (2.4 in).

The 1.2 - 1.6" spec pretty well translates to 1-3/8" to 1-3/4" when measured on the centerstand.
The "do not ride" guidance means that it could be dangerous over that. The chain could hang and lock the wheel.

3/4 to 1 inch is ludicrous. When I got my "warranty" chain, the Honda dealer set mine up too tight as well. On the way home I could hear it straining any time the suspension compressed on a bump. I pulled over and adjusted it on the side of the road. You can damage the counterstaft bearing in short order with the chain that tight. There is not a single proper amount of slack for a motorcycle chain. It depends on the geometry of the suspension. For our NC's the range given on the machine are fine unless the suspension has been modified.

 

[Fuzzy]

Lee, thanks for advice of extra 5mm on center stand. It is easier on the stand.

 

[Beemerphile]

Lee, thanks for advice of extra 5mm on center stand. It is easier on the stand.

You know, given the range of slack that is allowed, 5mm is kind of in the round-off error. The tight end scares me much more than the loose end does.

 

[StratTuner]

It is much easier to do the adjustment on the centerstand. The tutorial was done before I had the centerstand, but now that is what I use. It has been determined that the difference between the slack on the centerstand and the sidestand is about 5mm increased slack. But it will be the same every time, so if you add 5mm to your base min and max values, then you have what you need to do it thereafter on the centerstand where you can easily rotate the wheel to find the tightest position and more easily make the adjustments.

I don't have a centerstand, I have the rear wheel lift. The lift pushes against the swing arm to lift the rear wheel off the ground, so I'm guessing it's not the same. On the centerstand, the swing arm is hanging free with NO weight on it. ON the rear wheel lift, the swing arm bears weight and compresses.

I admit I don't know what the measurement should be with the rear wheel lift. I will measure side stand slack and rear wheel lift slack tomorrow, but I wouldn't want anyone to use those numbers. If I can trust the side stand measurement, then I can measure the wheel lift slack and figure out what the lift slack should be.

It would be better to do all this work on the stand rather than switch between the two.

 

[duk2n]

I admit I don't know what the measurement should be with the rear wheel lift. I will measure side stand slack and rear wheel lift slack tomorrow, but I wouldn't want anyone to use those numbers. If I can trust the side stand measurement, then I can measure the wheel lift slack and figure out what the lift slack should be

I bet both measures will match

 

[Oldenuf]

On my NC, the shock is at full extension on the side stand, so angle and measurements on the centerstand are the same. It would seem on a swingarm stand the shock could be under a bit of compression.

Art

 

[mrdcmills]

He is right on the Maxima chain wax. Best I've found. I got 27,000 mile on the first chain on my Xmoto. As to wheel alignment, I measure from the rear of the swingarm to the axle with calipers. Eyeball the little marks on the swingarm then measure it. You will be suprised how far it can be off.

 

[Beemerphile]

I don't have a centerstand, I have the rear wheel lift. The lift pushes against the swing arm to lift the rear wheel off the ground, so I'm guessing it's not the same. On the centerstand, the swing arm is hanging free with NO weight on it. ON the rear wheel lift, the swing arm bears weight and compresses.

I admit I don't know what the measurement should be with the rear wheel lift. I will measure side stand slack and rear wheel lift slack tomorrow, but I wouldn't want anyone to use those numbers. If I can trust the side stand measurement, then I can measure the wheel lift slack and figure out what the lift slack should be.

It would be better to do all this work on the stand rather than switch between the two.

Agree. There may be no difference, or only a slight difference. More than likely it will be minimal, but if you measure it you will know. Just subtract the difference between the sidestand slack and the workstand slack from the Honda recommended min and max values. (On a center stand, you would add the difference.) I guess in strict mathematical terms, you would add the algebraic difference in both cases. That would result in adding a positive difference number in the case of the centerstand, or adding a negative difference in the case of the workstand. Whichever is more confusing, I guess.

 

[StratTuner]

I'll be adjusting it again tonight just for peace of mind. I took it out on a canyon ride yesterday after all the work... I want to see if the alignment and slack are what they were when I left!

 

[L.B.S.]

I poke at the chain with the toe of my boot. If it waggles "too much" I adjust it. If it waggles "about right" I say a thankful prayer to the Patron Saint of lazy folks, and ride off blissfully ignorant/content...

 

[Old Can Ride]

Now here is someone I can identify with. Just Ride!

 

[docb91b]

My spanish owner's manual says the range of deflection is between 30 and 40 mm, which matchs your measure. But it says to measure it while the bike is over the side stand, with both tires on the floor.

It seems to me you measured it with the rear lifted?

I was reading this post and was curious about side stand vs. center stand measurement. On the side stand it was 30 mm and 31 on center stand. I would say that either position would work for adjusting the chain. Interesting enough, I haven't had to adjust the chain since I bought her with the OEM (and 7000 miles ridden so far). That being said, she already has a tight link.

D

 

[StratTuner]

It's probably better to measure it the same way all the time, but it doesn't seem to make too much difference measuring on the center stand or on the side stand... YMMV! (Your Mileage May Vary).

 

[bigjeff]

I poke at the chain with the toe of my boot. If it waggles "too much" I adjust it. If it waggles "about right" I say a thankful prayer to the Patron Saint of lazy folks, and ride off blissfully ignorant/content...

Ha ha - if it feels right it is? lol I can roll like that.

 

[Jelly]

Great thread, I've just ordered myself a chain alignment tool.

 

[itlives]

I cleaned and re-lubed mine yesterday using the recommended wax type lube. I really like it. It was less than half the price of the Honda dealer. I got it and the cleaner at Wally World.
The chain was right on the money at 1 3/8" on the center stand.

 

[Old Can Ride]

Chains are so time consuming. And for you folks who work, time is money. For us retired folks, time is honey do's. Yet, no one makes a light weight, mid-range cc, adventure travel motorcycle with a shaft drive! I say it is about time !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Ruggybuggy]

Chains are so time consuming. And for you folks who work, time is money. For us retired folks, time is honey do's. Yet, no one makes a light weight, mid-range cc, adventure travel motorcycle with a shaft drive! I say it is about time !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BMW GS1200 229 kg (505 lb)
Honda NC700X 218 kg (NC700X)

So BMW with a shaft drive might qualify but I certainly won't own one, I couldn't afford it! I safety check one last year for a customer who drove to Nevada to pick one up. Bike was about 2 years old with low mileage and with the accessories he paid around $22,000 bucks. Way to rich for me.

 

[ste7ios]

Chains are so time consuming. And for you folks who work, time is money. For us retired folks, time is honey do's. Yet, no one makes a light weight, mid-range cc, adventure travel motorcycle with a shaft drive! I say it is about time !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Not at all if you install an oiler like Turtoro, Scottoiler e-System, PD Oiler, etc. The chain remains lubed all the time, clean and trouble free!

(I've a Scottoiler...)

 

[Therapy]

Sure, The purpose is to cause the adjuster to seat fully forward before you tighten the hold-down nuts. Place the driver handle in the bottom of the sprocket where the chain enters and roll the tire in the forward direction by hand which will cause the driver handle to jam in between the chain and the sprocket. This will put tension on the top of the chain and cause it to pull the axle forward until it contacts the stop bolt. The MotionPro video explains it better than I do.

[video=youtube;u7f9y0MFIPY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7f9y0MFIPY[/video]

Now I want one of those tools but I think the video explaining it is pretty poor. The product is actually seen for only a little bit and the part that he said showed the wheel not aligned I froze and by golly it looks perfect to me. The rod is on the left of the rollers at both ends. I must be missing something though.

Thanks to all for the inputs.

Here is the chain measurements on my son's new-to-him 2012 X-model with 4200 miles.

On center stand slack is 30 mm.
On side stand slack is 30mm.
With 280lb sitting in riding position but feet on ground, slack is 15mm.

Now one can put the bike on the side stand and push it down some or pull it up some. Not much I grant, but for the angle wizards it may make a difference. I did not try both. I pushed it down and let it "pop" up as far as it wanted to go and measured it there.

I estimate an error possibility of +- 3mm.

Also, why are the marks on the swing arm not to be trusted? Did the factory stamp them wrong? Do some not figure out that they have to be under tension and that can be lost if one over-tightens and then loosens the bolt there will be slack that must be pulled out before using the marks?

I have used the marks on every bike I have ever owned. Granted that only comes to a grand total of 6 with chains.

I just want to know as I am back to owning a bike after a 20 yr hiatus and want to give the kids the proper information even though "I have done this a few times before"...........like over 250k miles worth.
But, 70k of that was on a shaft drive Kawasaki Concourse. What a nice bike.

So, my mind is inquiring.......thanks.