NC700X DCT Won't Start

[wozza]

Do motorcycles have Tip-Over-Switches that would shut them off automatically when not upright? I have no idea.

Now I didn't know that - that's a very interesting point...

 

[L.B.S.]

Now I didn't know that - that's a very interesting point...

The cogent point is though, that's only an: "argh, too late!" way of emergency shut off, lol.

I use my kill (oops, heh heh) er, OFF switch to shut the bike down in situations where I am trying to avoid an "argh!"

 

[Old Can Ride]

"Do motorcycles have Tip-Over-Switches that would shut them off automatically when not upright? I have no idea."

ATV's have angle sensors, but motorcycles do not. However, there are a lot of sensors that can drive you nuts on a motorcycle . But they are better than driving away with the kick stand still down. Done that a few times on my 78 Goldwing, and the ride'em cowboy rodeo begins quickly.

 

[Mike Cash]

Recommending not to use the kill switch instead of the key and the notion that it is an "emergency" switch probably both make a lot more sense in the context of the old days when most bikes had the ignition switch down on one side or the other instead of the currently more common location.

With a side located key:

1. Using the kill switch instead of the key, you may be more likely to walk off and leave the key in the bike. Out of sight = out of mind. Probably was even more true in the days before headlight switches got outlawed. These days you're more likely to notice.

2. In the event of a crash, the ignition switch may be on the low side of the bike and not easily reachable. A handlebar-mounted kill switch would be handy for such an emergency. But that is no reason that the switch should never be used except in an emergency.

With the current common location of ignition switches, being only some inches from the "emergency use only!" kill switch and in practically any emergency situation I can imagine both being essentially equally reachable, the only reason I can think of for the perpetuation of the notion of it having some emergency function is just as legacy thinking....a holdover from the days when it made at least a little sense to imagine it had an emergency function. A case of "that's the way it has always been" when the reason behind it no longer exists for the majority of bikes. It makes about as much sense now as if car owners were still cautioned about setting the spark advance right so the hand crank doesn't kick back and break their fingers or wrists when they start their cars.

 

[Spaceteach]

FWIW, when I took my first DOD (Department Of Defense) motorcycle safety class in the early 1970s they did not teach using the emergency stop switch to turn off the engine. When I was stationed at Vandenberg AFB a few years later they had us practice using the infamous red switch. At that time it was a relatively new change and they said the MSF had implemented it so riders would remember to use it in an emergency. Their take on the matter was to practice it so it would be second nature if you ever needed it. I don't remember them advising to use the switch for normal shut down however. Amazing how things change over the years.

Bob

 

[Spaceteach]

"Do motorcycles have Tip-Over-Switches that would shut them off automatically when not upright? I have no idea."

ATV's have angle sensors, but motorcycles do not. However, there are a lot of sensors that can drive you nuts on a motorcycle . But they are better than driving away with the kick stand still down. Done that a few times on my 78 Goldwing, and the ride'em cowboy rodeo begins quickly.

OCR,
I'm pretty sure the NC has a tip over sensor. On page 4-41 of the Service Manual Honda lists removal, installation, and test procedures for the bank angle sensor. That seems to be their name for a tip over sensor. However, Based on the OP's description of the problem he's having, I doubt this would be the cause.

Bob

 

[L.B.S.]

"...With the current common location of ignition switches, being only some inches from the "emergency use only!" kill switch and in practically any emergency situation I can imagine both being essentially equally reachable, the only reason I can think of for the perpetuation of the notion of it having some emergency function is..."

I can reach the off switch with my thumb without letting my fingers off the front brake or hand off the handlebar, in any time/gear/situation, but I can't turn the key off without at least a foot off the ground or a hand off the bars.

It's like trying to get the hang of of my wonky BMW turn signals. I've turned the signal switch off for so many umpteen million times on all my Japanese bikes, that it was something I no longer had to have the slightest occupation in the memory bank. A true autonomic task, that could be done with clutch in or out, stopping/accelerating, etc., etc.

With the Bavarian contraption, I was forever honking at people, and giving myself whiplash/popping unintentional wheelies trying to modulate the throttle, feather the front brake, shift, etc. when trying to end a lane change or a turn. The Turn signal off button was located beyond the reach of my thumb under any stretch, without requiring me to let go of the throttle and/or let go of the front brake.

Sure I could turn off the turn signal with my thumb, under most circumstances, without any problems whatsoever. But it was when the "sometimes also scenario" circumstances ganged up on me, and I couldn't do what I wanted to do, that I thought man, this design sure sucks!

So, yes, turning off the bike with the key is just fine for the most part, but I do happily use the Off switch instead enough, to be thankful for it's vestigial appendix hanging around stamina. Emergencies or not.

 

[n30r3l0ad3d]

First the battery voltage should be around 14 volts when checked

It should be slightly above 12 volts when NOT running, over 14 volts WHEN running. In your case, you should be checking for 12v.


Check:

*Battery voltage
*Kill switch
*Side stand
*Key operation
*Fuses

Chances are if everything mentioned above is in good working order, the starter could have taken a dump. Good luck to you OP.

 

[DominusFL]

Fixed!

I let the battery trickle charge overnight and today, and when I got home I turned it on. The act of turning the key made a very distinct transmission noise and it put itself back in neutral. Then it started right up.

My theory is that ended up facing two problems. First, I got that rare condition where I stopped the bike in 1st (probably put kickstand down without thinking) and restarting did not out it back into neutral. The fix for that was to move the bike a bit. But since i had tried starting it enough times already, I lowered the battery enough so that it would not start, even though I had probably fixed the first condition by moving the bike.

Thanks for all the assistance!
Now I know for next time.

Rick

P.S. I will probably keep using the kill switch because the key is in such an awkward position to get to with my GPS cradle in the way. I honestly don't think one method is worse than the other.

 

[kjang]

Great ! Easy enough fix.
Maybe put bike in neutral then turn it off. That's what i try to do.

Ken

 

[OriginalRocket]

Fixed!

I let the battery trickle charge overnight and today, and when I got home I turned it on. The act of turning the key made a very distinct transmission noise and it put itself back in neutral. Then it started right up.

My theory is that ended up facing two problems. First, I got that rare condition where I stopped the bike in 1st (probably put kickstand down without thinking) and restarting did not out it back into neutral. The fix for that was to move the bike a bit. But since i had tried starting it enough times already, I lowered the battery enough so that it would not start, even though I had probably fixed the first condition by moving the bike.

Thanks for all the assistance!
Now I know for next time.

Rick

P.S. I will probably keep using the kill switch because the key is in such an awkward position to get to with my GPS cradle in the way. I honestly don't think one method is worse than the other.

So.... I won? I did state not enough battery to get into neutral

more importantly great news on fixing the motorcycle. Low battery, as Dale said, on the DCT model makes things not work, and cause issues.

 

[DominusFL]

So.... I won? I did state not enough battery to get into neutral

more importantly great news on fixing the motorcycle. Low battery, as Dale said, on the DCT model makes things not work, and cause issues.

Thanks. I think the thing was the combination problem, because when it first would not start the battery was fully charged fresh. By the time I tried moving the bike which fixed the first problem, I probably already drained the battery enough to not start.

Just going to only kill it when it neutral from now on, as recommended above.

Rick

 

[Cagedodger]

This happened to me this morning when I was getting ready to head off to work. It displayed a "1" on the gear indicator when I put the key in. Fuel pump cycled up, but I didn't hear it switch from gear to neutral like it normally does. Nothing would start it. I ran it all last week and I've got no special electrical mods. I had to take my truck because I didn't have time to troubleshoot it. When I got home, I was ready to try the various suggestions in this thread, but it started first try. I purposely killed it in gear several times hoping to reproduce the issue, but it started first press every time (after shifting to neutral after power-cycling the bike and kill switch).

I always use the kill switch for every bike I've ever had. Every manual bike I've ever had I always cut the engine with it in first gear. That's the only parking brake I've ever known. I guess I figured it was no different on the DCT version of this bike. I guess I have to lend a little more faith to the parking break on the DCT? That still fells a little weird to me.

I really wish I knew what the issue was this morning. I'm contemplating a slow trip from VA to TX and back in about a month, but no way I'd do that if I knew there was an unexplained starting issue.

 

[spongebobnopants]

Mine was in an accident yesterday. I was ejected and didn't see what happened to the bike. After a trip to the ER I went to recover my bike. It wouldn't start. I knew that you had to have it upright, but "N" wasn't lit up. I knew it must have been in gear. The bike was parked on a slight incline. I turned it around and that must have been all it needed to get the upright sensor going.

 

[ron700]

Mine was in an accident yesterday. I was ejected and didn't see what happened to the bike. After a trip to the ER I went to recover my bike. It wouldn't start. I knew that you had to have it upright, but "N" wasn't lit up. I knew it must have been in gear. The bike was parked on a slight incline. I turned it around and that must have been all it needed to get the upright sensor going.

Dang, are you alright?

 

[spongebobnopants]

Dang, are you alright?

I'm alive because of my helmet, I'm not paralyzed because of my back protector, I can type this because of my armored gloves. But being thrown from your bike, landing on your head and having an 8" curb being your stop still hurts... Just really sore. I'll post some pictures in a new thread.

 

[maxou723]

Happy to hear though that your alright! Seems to be a trend these days...

 

[SergeantChuck]

Glad to hear your Ok.

 

[L.B.S.]

Hoping you had pants on, mate...

Sorry to hear I pray all is well and everything works out as best as possible!

 

[Beemerphile]

I just did some wire-tracing to confirm the function of the "engine stop" switch vs. the ignition switch. The "engine stop" switch disables the "start" switch, and cuts power to the ECU/ECM, both fuel injectors and the fuel pump. It does not cut power to the ancillary circuits. The ignition switch kills all that plus the ancillary circuits. I can see no problem from cutting the bike off routinely from the "engine stop" switch followed by turning off the ignition switch to prevent battery drain.