Tutoro Oiler

[johnakay]

nearly all my bikes had scott oilers they to left oily residue all over the back end ,no matter how low the flow is.
on the current Tutoro I dont get that and the chain is nice and wet.

 

[oldmanaz]

Like my Tutoro Oiler.

Did not take much time to determine the correct adjustment. I had to lessen the flow when it got up in the 80's a few weeks back. Only a slight oil stain on the top of the rear part of the chain guard. It is easier to clean than the chain.

It is an investment in your bike.

 

[Mojave]

A while back I settled on Fuchs Silkolene Synthetic Pro Chain Lube. Comes in a big can and a 6oz can. Big can for the garage and I take a 6oz can on trips. I apply after every significant day ride, or few short rides, and put on everyday when on trips. This stuff is the best and cleanest (and most expensive!) I've found - I apply only to the rollers and just very little. It comes out very thin and spreads out instantly. The solvent evaporates in a minute and what's left (according to Fuchs) is a high pressure lube flim. Using just this stuff the chain and sprocket stay pretty clean and I only rarely have to adjust tension.

The Silkolene semi-syn is typical old fashion thick gummy black oil garbage "chain lube" - I DO NOT recommend!

I normally use high quality odorless mineral spirit (OMS or kerosene) for cleaning chains though I occasionally use WD40. Many years ago WD in their infinite wisdom started using aerosol cans with really stiff nozzles that you simply can't control - it comes blasting out all over the place. I'm sure this sells more WD40 but I hate getting 50X more than I need. I now have a gallon can of the stuff and use it from a plastic lab type squeeze bottle. I have a home machine shop and I actually use it a bit for that.

BTW, I've never tried an oiler, and don't really have an opinion. I simply don't keep bikes long enough to think about going through the ritual. Perhaps this one is different then the Scott which always seemed a balancing act between a mess and actual benefit.

 

[mwcogburn]

Does anyone have experience with the Motobriiz system?

The key differences I see are;
1. Actuated by air pressure generated by the moving bike.
2. Uses a felt applicator pad. This is a wear part that is supposed to last approximately 5,000 miles. My concern is that this pad will accumulate dirt which would not be good for the chain.
3. Flow rate is adjusted by changing the viscosity of the oil. They recommend starting with 30W bar and chain oil.

Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk

 

[elizilla]

I've tested four different oilers. I won't get into the specifics of each oiler I tested, but here are my general conclusions.

1. When you get them right they work really really well. I'm a convert.
2. Don't use bar and chain oil or any other tacky oil. The thing that makes them work, is not the keeping of oil on the chain. It's the removal of dirt and grit that would otherwise cause wear. Sticky oil just glues the dirt in place. You want to have a tiny amount of fling. It's possible to fine tune this fling down to such a small amount that the drops coming off are black and thick like tar, but you need to have that fling. Plain engine oil gives comparable results to ScottOil; both are quite good.
3. Many oilers use commonly available aquarium tubing. This is too large. You need to find tubing that is small enough that air bubbles can't go up it. With the aquarium tubing, you can't meter the oil properly because when your bike is parked, air goes up the tube, oil comes out, the bike marks its spot, and then it takes too long for the tube to fill back up and start delivering oil, so your chain dries out. Use small tubing that doesn't lose its prime when the bike is parked.
4. Leave a piece of cardboard on the garage floor, and when you park, use your foot to shove it under the chain. If you have to replace this cardboard before the end of the season, your oiler needs work.
5. The stuff that flings off from the oiler, is easier to clean off than the stuff that flings when you use spray on chain products.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

5. The stuff that flings off from the oiler, is easier to clean off than the stuff that flings when you use spray on chain products.

I totally agree with this comment. I have found that when using a proprietary Chain spray, no matter how good a brand, the offshoots from the chain are always difficult to shift from wherever they land. One just has to remove the cover from the front sprocket to find a built up mess behind it that has the consistency of putty. This also builds up under the chain guard. That of course suggests that much of the related product is wasted.

I use Tutoro and Scottoiler products. I get good mileage from my chains and rarely experience tight spots. The oil I use in them is what is left over after an oil change in my Car, or any of my bikes. It is usually full Synthetic and good quality. Any oil mist build up on the chain area, either falls off or is easily shifted with a basic cleaner. Quality spray products are ok. They do a good job. However in the long term they are the more expensive option .

 

[treybrad]

Santa brought me a Tutoro, so I installed it today.

Nice bit of kit, quality components, and it was a quick and painless install. I think that's a good spot for it... easy to access to monitor oil level/add oil/adjust flow, but tucked behind the footpeg brackets where I don't think a boot could get in there and whack it.

The chain pictured is brand new, only got ~17k out of the last two chains, which is less than I usually get. I managed 50k out of the OEM chain on my Bandit, hoping the Tutoro will get me closer to that kind of mileage on this new chain.

I'm using straight SAE 30 weight oil right now, starting out 1.5 turns out. I'll see how that is and go from there.

trey

 

[hojo]

Dumb question; if it's automatic, what makes it start dripping oil and what makes it stop when you park?

 

[Antarius]

Air pressure from moving forward.

 

[Fuzzy]

Thu Tutoro has a weight in the oil chamber that seals off the discharge into the hose. When the bike is moving the weight will bounce around letting oil into the hose. There is a needle valve on the hose to control flow and how much oil is getting to the chain. Engine running with bike still is not enough to move the weight and let oil through. I admire the ingenuity of the simple effective concept.

It is another brand uses pressure from the wind at the front of the bike to pressurize the oil and push it into the hose.

 

[Antarius]

Ahhhh, I see.

 

[Antarius]

Santa brought me a Tutoro, so I installed it today.


Nice bit of kit, quality components, and it was a quick and painless install. I think that's a good spot for it... easy to access to monitor oil level/add oil/adjust flow, but tucked behind the footpeg brackets where I don't think a boot could get in there and whack it.

The chain pictured is brand new, only got ~17k out of the last two chains, which is less than I usually get. I managed 50k out of the OEM chain on my Bandit, hoping the Tutoro will get me closer to that kind of mileage on this new chain.

I'm using straight SAE 30 weight oil right now, starting out 1.5 turns out. I'll see how that is and go from there.

trey

Just to be fair, Trey; The Bandit you had likely had a 525 or a 530 pitch chain, which is significantly thicker and stronger (and heavier!) than our 520 chains on the NC. That will most certainly have extended the life cycle of the chain, in comparison to a 520 chain.

I'm sure the Tutoro will help extend the 520 chain on the NC, but I wouldn't expect 50k miles out of them like a nice thick 525 or 530 chain does.

Personally, I wish Honda put a 525 on these bikes to begin with. The weight savings of the 520 -- and the fuel efficiency of it -- just isn't really necessary for this application. Oh well.

FYI, I got 15k-ish out of my stock Honda chain on the NC -- without an oiler. I put a higher quality chain on it and I expect at least 3 or 4000 more miles out of it than the stock chain. I'd imagine with an oiler you'd see even better results.

 

[Nortwestrider]

Just to be fair, Trey; The Bandit you had likely had a 525 or a 530 pitch chain, which is significantly thicker and stronger (and heavier!) than our 520 chains on the NC. That will most certainly have extended the life cycle of the chain, in comparison to a 520 chain.

I'm sure the Tutoro will help extend the 520 chain on the NC, but I wouldn't expect 50k miles out of them like a nice thick 525 or 530 chain does.

Personally, I wish Honda put a 525 on these bikes to begin with. The weight savings of the 520 -- and the fuel efficiency of it -- just isn't really necessary for this application. Oh well.

FYI, I got 15k-ish out of my stock Honda chain on the NC -- without an oiler. I put a higher quality chain on it and I expect at least 3 or 4000 more miles out of it than the stock chain. I'd imagine with an oiler you'd see even better results.

Even if the Bandit had a heavier chain it still had almost double our HP !!.


Live life,be yourself !!!!.

 

[Antarius]

Even if the Bandit had a heavier chain it still had almost double our HP !!.
Live life,be yourself !!!!.

Very true! I'd imagine in most real-world daily driving scenarios it's probably ridden very similarly though.

 

[Nortwestrider]

I ride my NC the same way that I rode my DL1000,same route,same weather condition etc.I could only get 10,000 miles out of a chain and sprockets even when using a Lubeman oiling system,I got 17,000+++ out of my stock NC chain without a oiling system.The DL had almost 2x the hp!!.


Live life,be yourself !!!!.

 

[treybrad]

The Bandit had at least double the HP. At one point I got the speed itch and did intake/exhaust/fuel controller mods and should have had ~120hp/90tq at the rear tire. But, 90% of the time I was just cruising along or commuting and that didn't matter.

50k miles with minimal fuss is certainly better than average, I wasn't expecting that on the NC. But, < 20k miles was surprising... I'm hoping the oiler will help stretch it out to 30k at least.

We'll see... so far so good!

trey

 

[rippin209]

I just installed a tutoro oiler today.
I drive to work 4 days a week that's 500 miles rain or shine. And weekend fun, when it's fun riding conditions

 

[rippin209]

I just installed a new D.I.D. Chain and new sprockets a week ago so we'll see how much of a difference it makes. I got 11k out of original and 18k out of the same D.I.D. chain I just installed last week

 

[rippin209]

Hey guys I was wondering what kind of oil I can use in the tutoro oiler I live in California in the US shipping cost is as much as the oil from the tutoro

 

[Deleted member 1183]

I have various motor oils left over after oil changes from my bikes and car. They vary somewhat in viscosity and accordingly I pick one that flows best in a given temperature. They are mostly fully synthetic so the chain is getting the best of oil. The objective is to keep a decent supply of oil on the chain to get under the rollers and stop them binding and wearing. The chain pins are already lubed with grease on construction.