nc splitter
New Member
I like the torco full synthetic 10/30. I dont like royal purple because it looks dirty right out of the bottle.
Which motor oil do you suggest?
- Thread starter Markino
- Start date
PPWW
New Member
What about this one:
?
?
MZ5
Well-Known Member
I thought my oil smelled a bit strong of fuel when I changed it recently. Not enough to thin the viscosity noticeably but enough to smell.
Just so I can be the first to ask... Is the LE oil JASO MA rated?
To the best of my knowledge, it has not been tested against JASO MA. I thought of sending some to SWRI or another lab I know of for testing, but decided I didn't care that much. One can infer with good confidence from the analysis that it falls within the frictional (JASO MA) requirement, though.
2wheelcager
New Member
They are giving you sound advice, and not just trying to sell you a service. Service guys aren't salesman and don't work on commission. After about 2k in an engine that shares its oil with the transmission, shearing causes the viscosity to drop and by 3k you have gone down a grade. If you are starting with 10w30 you'll have closer to a 10w20 weight. Some bikes are harder on oil than others, but its pretty universal and I invite you to research this fact on your own. 8k is way to long for an oil change interval if you truly want to protect the long term life of your motorcycle engine. Using a synthetic will make no difference, all oils will become sheared. I have read countless posts all over the internet on forums substantially older and wiser than this one which included significant oil analysis as proof. The oil may be fine in all other aspects after a few thousand miles, but the viscosity won't be. A car would be fine for extended changes, but not an engine with a shared wet sump. I would at least cut the oil change interval down in half. Will 8k changes kill your engine? No, but it definitely won't offer much in long term protection for sure. To each his own.
Hmcp88
Site Supporter
If you look at the 8k oil report tread of mine you will actually see the viscosity only dropped a point or two in 8,000 miles interval. They had nothing bad to say for 8,000 miles. We should just trust Hondas judgement on intervals. The proof is there, that oil report is more reputable than joe shmo on any forum.
VE258
New Member
another vote for Honda HP4S synthetic 10w-30. have it on my CBR-big difference. smoother shifts,bike starts easier and better performance overall. big fan of synthetic oils. used them on all of my cars for many many years. use to delivering parts on little nissan sentra. made 500K miles w/o any major repairs. only maintenance+water pump and thermostat. no leaks,no other fixes. car worked like new. eventually died in accident(not my fault). same experience with altima- bought used,12 years-works like new. mobil 1 full synthetic on all cars.
dduelin
Site Supporter
I am with you. Honda is not perfect and they've made mistakes but they are not going to suggest change intervals that jeopardize the reputation they have for long lived engines. In the V4 motors they have enough faith in the 8000 mile interval to warranty the bike for 3 years and unlimited miles. It's nothing for these bikes to roll up 200 or 300,000 miles and there are some over 400,000 miles now. They share oil with the engine and transmission. Everyone is an expert on the Internet including Honda's engineers. And not all synthetics shear down like mineral oil based motor oils.
Honda could have saved a lot of R&D money by just checking on the internet for the correct drain interval for the NC. Silly rabbits.
I change my oil at 5,000 miles. Not because I know more, its because its easier for me to keep track.
I know its foolish to waste money like that, but I don't think a few extra oil changes will cost me anywhere near what my future ex-wife did.
I know its foolish to waste money like that, but I don't think a few extra oil changes will cost me anywhere near what my future ex-wife did.
bo7o
Member
Hi Hmcp...I am interested in looking at your 8k oil report, but I searched your post history and I could not find it... Do you have a link (or could you resend)?
Thanks! Rob
I do that too on vehicles that don't have oil life management systems and for the same reason. Further, I change oil filters every other time on the even 10K's. After cutting open a lot of oil filters, I find there is plenty of capacity left at 10K miles when using synthetic oil at 5K drain intervals. Interestingly, a dirty filter will filter better than a clean one (assuming it is not so dirty it is bypassing) because the dirt is a precoat on the filter media. Also, since the gunk in the filter tends to be agglomerative, the gunk attracts more gunk unto itself.
My exception is air-cooled motorcycles without oil coolers such as various dirt bikes and my new 1976 BMW. On those, I cut the intervals in half. 3K would work but the mental math is easier with 2.5K and 5K. I have always said I was going to write or buy a computerized Preventative Maintenance System for my vehicles, but I never did. Maybe I didn't want a motorcycle with PMS?
Hmcp88
Site Supporter
http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-technical/2082-8k-oil-report.html
Thats the only way I found to get the link, hope it works.
Jguarfn28
Member
I am at 5535 miles and the bike feels like it needs new oil. Just doesn't feel like the smoothness is there anymore. Went to Sprawlmart and got the 15-40 T6 for $17 and the Fram Honda filter was a reasonable $6.78. Does this filter fit on more than half of Honda's bikes? Seemed that way. It was out of stock in the MC filter area but was available in the automotive filter area. Has a MC on the box if you get confused. I do easily. Was going to do it tonite but don't have a strap or filter wrench on hand. Maybe tomorrow....
jtkirk
New Member
Have used the Rotella 5/40 full synthetic for at least 34,000 miles in my FZ6. Never had any issues.
StratTuner
Site Supporter
Wow! 34K! that seems enough empirical data to suggest that Rotella is at least as good as other, more expensive, oils. I've got it in there now, and I'm staying with it.
Nancy's Lover
New Member
Is it safe to use "regular gasoline engine oil" in a motorcycle engine ??...I have been reading about this everywhere and I believe is a good discussion point. I have seen some people recommend the Rotella T6 5w40 for example which is for Diesel engines. I haven't had the oportunity to open up and inspect a motorcycle engine with enough miles to see and compare wear in internal parts such as clutch discs and gears. Every time I'm tempted to use other than motorcycle engine oil in one of my bikes, I always think in the transmission parts.
VE258
New Member
the manual says SG or higher or equivalent oil. and that's about it. as far as i know-all current oils are SG.however-it's a blood of the engine(and transmission) and i wouldn't ' play with it. after 500 miles i'm planning to put pro honda's GN4 regular oil and 1-2K later-switch to fully synthetic HP4S. i've done this in the past on honda CBR and there is a noticeable improvement. the bike starts\cranks easier,but biggest improvement was in shifting. transmission(manual) operates way better than on regular honda oil(forget the car oil). IMO-worth every penny and you have to do it once a year anyway. wrong place to save some money.
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dduelin
Site Supporter
Rotella T6 5w40 is also a gasoline engine oil. Along with certification as a diesel engine oil (CG4 ???) is also carries a certification for spark engines (gasoline) as API SM or SL. In addition, it carries the JASO MA certification as compatible for engines that use a clutch in the shared engine/transmission oil. What T6 5w40 does not meet is the Honda recommendation for 10w but that is not that big of a deal as 5w ratings cover and surpass the low temperature range of 10w oils. If you are starting your NC700X below 0 degrees F a 5w would have better cranking characteristics but in below zero F conditions your engine oil is the last thing to worry about.
I did run Rotella T6 and it's predecessor Rotella T 5w40 for 40 or 50,000 miles in my ST1300. These miles were between about 30,000 and 80,000 miles when I switched to a full synthetic Mobile 1 which I presently use. Rotella is not a full synthetic nevertheless a very good oil. The bike now has 119,000 miles and the engine is in superb condition. It never burns a drop of oil and when I did the last valve clearance check at 116,000 miles the visible moving parts like the camshafts and buckets still had no visible wear. The clutch is original and the tranny shifts like it always has. The only reason I don't run it (T6) in the NC700X is for economy reasons - a 30w has slightly better economy and since I bought the NC partly for the technology that delivers high mileage I just want to use 10w30 in it.
Johnny D
New Member
And more importantly, the viscosity is supposed to be 30, not 40. The 10W designation is viscosity when cold, which doesn't mean much for motorcycles. When it is below freezing out, people generally don't ride bikes
I am glad this thread exists, as I just passed 600 miles and am due for my first oil change. I like the idea of a full synthetic like Rotella T6, but if Honda is recommending 30 weight, I do not see the logic in putting in a heavier oil. There are 30 weight synthetic oils out there, so why not use them?
I still haven't decided, but want to find the best 30 weight synthetic that is cheap and readily available (at walmart would be good
)Someone was recommending Ams, but I dont see that on the shelf at the stores I shop at.
StratTuner
Site Supporter
I am too. I refer back to it often.
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