misterk
Member
Did you have to lengthen any cables, or just disconnect the brake line from the rubber mount thingy?
Nope, it was just plug and play. I have the DCT.
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Did you have to lengthen any cables, or just disconnect the brake line from the rubber mount thingy?
I found myself on some rough dirt, mud and loose gravel a few weeks ago and was pleasantly surprised with the NC. Then I, too, remember I had no skid plate and ordered one. I want to play some more off road, I am inexperienced on dirt.
I consider myself a dirt noob but gravel rider.
All the FS roads in my area are more or less gravel, no real dirt but short sections.
The few hours of dirt riding was at the MSF Dirt Bike Class which I took twice.
The second one was a free offer to fill some space.
If you take a dirtbike class, make sure to ride outside of your abilities and crash.
That's how I do it. Since then, I've had tip-overs in actual riding but never crashed.
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Installed shorty adjustable levers from eBay on my NC700X and my WR250R last night. Here's the NC ones.
The quality and finish is really good, and the adjusters work with a cam with six steps, the arrangement is very positive with no inclination to release from the position you've chosen. This allows one to set the levers closer for shorter fingers or further for longer ones. I think I'm going to like these, they really feel good, comfortable and smooth and strong! I think they look nice, but for those who are less inclined to like obvious bling, they can be had in anodized black.
I had to remove the plastic cups from the handguards to have good access and one thing I noticed is how much better the Tusk cups on my WR handguards attach. The attachment method on the Storm Barkbusters for NC700X consist of one short pointy button-head screw that goes in from the front, and two tiny screws and a plastic bridge that go in from the back, connecting plastic to plastic. This method does not inspire confidence that a tough secure attachment will fend off separation when the going gets rough.
The Tusk method on the other hand(!) uses two hefty machine screws that are screwed in from the front into threaded holes on the aluminum crossbars, and they go all the way through to the inner surface. They've taken a pounding from dirt naps and everything was just as tight as the day it was installed. The plastic won't easily be ripped away from the assembly. Whats more, is they cost a lot less! Fie on Barkbusters for not doing a better job!
Still haven't done anything with the bike today, but just got my new TKC-80 tires in the mail (fortnine), and also the handguards, heated grips and folding peg from Twisted Throttle...
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We have sun in Vancouver today, so I may just take the opportunity to ride around and spend the next rainy days installing the stuff... Still not sure if I should change the tires myself or have it done... But I guess I need to know how to do it by myself for my coming trip, so...
Looks like you may have bought the optional light kit for the handguards? If so, please be sure to document with photo's the install as I'm interested in adding the option to my Kobra's.
I installed an SAE lead into the frunk to make it easier to put the bike on a battery tender.
I cut a small piece out of the bottom of the plastic wall between the frunk and the battery. This allows the plastic wall to be in its correct position. I noticed I could cut out a piece of the plastic without damaging the rubber backing, if I was careful.
I also used the heated grips for the first time since testing them when they were installed. They are the Honda set, easy to use and quite warm. The left one did seem a little warmer than the right one.
Cooler weather is coming so I guess I need to think about handguards and a Madstad screen. I am leaning towards SW Motech handguards since I have so much of their stuff already on the bike.