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2019: What did you do to/with your NC700 today?

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This morning I cleaned my bike within an inch of its life; quite therapeutic I think and a fantastic way to get reassurance that everything is where it should be.

That said, does anyone have suggestions on how to make the brown exhaust more appealing; will a spray paint adhere to such a hot pipe?
e99742e7b3c7671181b3fb30a59a1a68.jpg


...and although movement in the chain is fine, with no tight spots or such to be found, should I be looking to replace a chain where the rubber o-rings are splitting and showing themselves between the links?

fb4e8b5f6d2139b40d9aa4f142b9bce9.jpg


After all, wasn't it a fault in an o-ring that spelled disaster on Challenger shuttle and indeed the plane the singer Kirstie McColl was on?

I would get a chain in your inventory. I would expect the wear to speed up when the factory lubricant is not sealed in.
 
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This morning I cleaned my bike within an inch of its life; quite therapeutic I think and a fantastic way to get reassurance that everything is where it should be.

That said, does anyone have suggestions on how to make the brown exhaust more appealing; will a spray paint adhere to such a hot pipe?
e99742e7b3c7671181b3fb30a59a1a68.jpg


...and although movement in the chain is fine, with no tight spots or such to be found, should I be looking to replace a chain where the rubber o-rings are splitting and showing themselves between the links?

fb4e8b5f6d2139b40d9aa4f142b9bce9.jpg


After all, wasn't it a fault in an o-ring that spelled disaster on Challenger shuttle and indeed the plane the singer Kirstie McColl was on?
As long as you don't have any tight spots I'd hold off, I'd order a replacement though.

I'm curious how you mounted your tool tube below the side cases, would you mind sharing some more pics and/or described how you did that?
 
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I'm curious how you mounted your tool tube below the side cases, would you mind sharing some more pics and/or described how you did that?

Tool tube installation - a couple of posts here showing how I did that :)

Yesterday, I wasted a tank of fuel on underutilized and winding back roads. If that counts as a waste?

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Rode the NC over to Madison Indiana to look at a motorcycle show on the river (no pics, sorry, didnt think about it...). Ran into Jay which I met last year at Kickstand 9 (he has the Ninja for anyone who has been to the Kickstand meet ups) and also lives in Indiana...he was on the Ninja and it was spotless....(told him he spends way too much time cleaning the bike..hehehe). Left and tried to ride hwy 62 to Friendship but rode was closed a few miles out (roads are closed everywhere it seems) but ended up in Vevay Indiana and hwy 56 back to Madison and them back home. My little camera wasn't turned on for hwy 62 but here is a video from 2 years ago (same road, but yesterday I was behind a few Tigers---zoom zoom):
[video=youtube;JSa916YP334]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSa916YP334&t=4s[/video]
 
Not really electronics, just a quarter (coin) sized piece with 2 wires on one side and 3 on the other. Technically it IS electronics as the guts are a diode, but there's really nothing to it, you connect the two wire side to the lights and the 3 wire side to your neutral, your indicator wire (color wire is different for each side of the bike), and the regular DRL wire. If you follow the wires from the stock DRL/indicators you're good to go. Using Posi-Taps made the whole thing a breeze.
The device is more than just a diode

with just a diode, if a 2 wire light is attached to a 3 wire source, the light would always be lit by DRL so turn signal wouldn't do anything to it

I don't know how the device is set up, I see two options: one is that it runs the light at full brightness on DRL and then turns it off when the turn signal wire is powered, the other is that it runs it at reduced brightness on DRL and then full power when the turn signal wire is powered. I'd prefer the former.
 
This morning I cleaned my bike within an inch of its life; quite therapeutic I think and a fantastic way to get reassurance that everything is where it should be.

That said, does anyone have suggestions on how to make the brown exhaust more appealing; will a spray paint adhere to such a hot pipe?
e99742e7b3c7671181b3fb30a59a1a68.jpg


...and although movement in the chain is fine, with no tight spots or such to be found, should I be looking to replace a chain where the rubber o-rings are splitting and showing themselves between the links?

fb4e8b5f6d2139b40d9aa4f142b9bce9.jpg


After all, wasn't it a fault in an o-ring that spelled disaster on Challenger shuttle and indeed the plane the singer Kirstie McColl was on?
I gave my opinion on the chain but glanced right over the question about the exhaust, there is already paint designed for exhaust manifolds that is more then capable of withstanding the heat of the exhaust on the NC, the best way to do that would be removing the muffler, remove the exhaust, sand down the bare metal (just a little) use a rag and wipe down to remove dust, tape off or plug sensor hole, hang the exhaust somewhere you can spray paint it, hang vertical, start from the top and work your way down (don't apply to much at once or you'll get ugly drips) if needed apply multiple light coats.

If you do this share pics
 
I gave my opinion on the chain but glanced right over the question about the exhaust, there is already paint designed for exhaust manifolds that is more then capable of withstanding the heat of the exhaust on the NC, the best way to do that would be removing the muffler, remove the exhaust, sand down the bare metal (just a little) use a rag and wipe down to remove dust, tape off or plug sensor hole, hang the exhaust somewhere you can spray paint it, hang vertical, start from the top and work your way down (don't apply to much at once or you'll get ugly drips) if needed apply multiple light coats.

If you do this share pics

I did that to my wife's Rebel 500 due to the OEM paint getting scratched. It works but...

1. Paint
2. Install and idle for 10 minutes
3. Wait an hour and idle for 20 minutes
4. Wait an hour then ride for 30 minutes

Times are probably wrong but that's the process. The exhaust is insulated enough that it doesn't get as hot as they expect. After a few rides it'll be fine but it takes longer to cure than the instructions state. Of course you can use an oven if you have a spare.

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I did that to my wife's Rebel 500 due to the OEM paint getting scratched. It works but...

1. Paint
2. Install and idle for 10 minutes
3. Wait an hour and idle for 20 minutes
4. Wait an hour then ride for 30 minutes

Of course you can use an oven if you have a spare.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Better be careful messin’ around in the kitchen.........that could get ya into trouble wif da boss :rolleyes:
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Better be careful messin’ around in the kitchen.........that could get ya into trouble wif da boss :rolleyes:
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Yes but not as much trouble if something happens today. Rode her Rebel instead of my NC. It was to swing it by a shop to correct something they messed up (already done). Got to bring it back looking better than I took it. And they're doing construction in the parking lot so it'll be exceptionally dusty...

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The device is more than just a diode

with just a diode, if a 2 wire light is attached to a 3 wire source, the light would always be lit by DRL so turn signal wouldn't do anything to it

I don't know how the device is set up, I see two options: one is that it runs the light at full brightness on DRL and then turns it off when the turn signal wire is powered, the other is that it runs it at reduced brightness on DRL and then full power when the turn signal wire is powered. I'd prefer the former.

You're absolutely right, I guess I was really trying to make the point that from installation/using - you don't need to know anything about electronics, just wire up the 2-wire side to the two wires coming from the LED's in the hand guards; and then connect the 3-wire side to the neutral, DRL, and indicator lights on the bike.

I bought mine from Admore. I talked to them about it first as I saw they had them available for some other lights they were selling (2711 - handguard light kit). They call them "micro-controllers". I've also seen "2-wire to 3-wire" kits for as low as $5 available at other sellers. Not sure what the difference is, but I trust Admore when it comes to lighting etc. They've been absolutely bulletproof for me.
 
Installed the new chain and sprockets over the weekend. Changed out the front sprocket for the 17t. Put on the 12oclock labs speedoDRD last week. It runs great now and I don't notice much difference on the takeoff power so I ordered the 41t sprocket for the rear. The difference is now about 6 percent and with the smaller rear sprocket it should be about 10 or 11. I expect that it'll run on the highway a bit better after I'm done.
 
Concerning the exhaust..

If you are using that special "heat/wood stove" type paint the directions given will work nicely. I have done that several times over the years and it does work. However, I now have access to a nice "Cerakote" oven that i have been able to use for coating firearm pieces. So since it was brought up...later this coming winter i had planned to remove several of the caps/covers etc on the NC and my plan was to "Cerakote" them with a color similar to the factory Honda Silver.

In the Gunsmith shop i work part-time in, we have many customers that really use/abuse their firearms that have been coated with Cerakote and man it wears/protects like iron! So, that gave me the idea to do several of my parts on the NC. Cerakote has many colors/options, so if there is a Cerakote shop in your area, check with them and see what is available and what they are willing to do for you as an option. High-Temp exhaust type Cerakote is available if you'd like to do your complete exhaust in any color they have available.

Also, if the shop you find "we have never done that here before", they may be willing to do it for you at a greatly reduced price as you would be their guinea haha. I have Cerakoted everything from Snap-On tools to gun steel(rifle barrels, muzzle breaks, pistol slides to Glock plastic and Yeti-Cups with great success! If you are not able to locate a shop you are happy with or one that just doesn't want to cooperate, let me know and i'll Cerakote your parts for you(for a small fee of course haha)!

As i am doing the Cerakoting to my own parts, i'll start a thread so ya'all can follow along if you'd like. I'm thinking parts like clutch levers, brake levers, aftermarket pegs(no rubber-or you remove it first, engine covers, caps etc). I might even consider doing one or both of my sprockets a wild Red, Blue, Silver or something haha!
:{)


Here is a pair of Yeti-Cups i did for a dear friend of mine and his wife as a gift(yes their names really are Seth & Beth). :{P
Seth & Beth Yeti cups FEB 22nd 2017.jpg

Here is a custom rifle build i did for myself where i Cerakoted the spiral fluted barrel and muzzle break(Tikka action, 6.5 CM).
Tikka custom 6.5 CM2.jpg

Here is a Glock 42 slide that I milled and cerakoted
Glock g42 milled cerakoted and night sights.jpg

Here is a nice 1911 .45 where i also milled the slide and did a two-toned Cerakote job
HS1911 2 tone Cerakote milled slide7.jpg

...you get the idea! :{P
 
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As I still have 2 nails in the rear tires of my bike, I rode the wife's bike to get some routine blood tests. Could have gotten the blood tests at the branch office near my home but the main office is close to a nice cigar lounge ... so I used that as my excuse to ride to the north part of the county for my blood tests and then stopped at the cigar lounge to hang with the regulars for a couple hours while enjoying a nice Dominican cigar.
 
... Rode her Rebel instead of my NC. ... And they're doing construction in the parking lot so it'll be exceptionally dusty...

Texted her to let her know it needed a bath. I had to wipe off the speedometer so I could easily read it. Since hers was getting a bath, I decided to wash mine too (it was overdue).

Rode to work this morning. Hit the turn signal and the hazard lights light up on the dash. What? Get to a low traffic area and try the other signal. Both indicators light up in the dash but I can see the actual signals are working correctly. Hmm, wonder where I got water? Probably in the dash. All worked fine on the ride home so I guess everything died out in the sun. I'll have to be more careful next time.

To those thinking what I'd be thinking... No, I didn't use a pressure washer or anything forceful. Just the fan spray on the water hose from a couple feet away. Never caused issues before...

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Unfortunately nothing done to/with NC lately. NC was stuck in Canada while I was down in Cuba. Rented a different "adventure bike" and, as the photos show, opted for the off-road package and performance exhaust. Good times.

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So, do we get a video of how you got all of that mud on that fine looking machine?
 
Well, it wasn’t what did I do with MY NC700 today, but what did I do with Honda’s NC750X. I test rode a new 750 at Honda’s demo ride truck.

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I found the 750 to be a refinement of the already great NC700X. No, the seat wasn’t any better, and the engine wasn’t any smoother despite the twin balancers, but it was a tad more peppy, and I liked that the low, abrupt rev limiter of the original model was gone. The display, in my opinion, was harder to read than on the first NC models. Overall, what an awesome, user friendly motorcycle!

I also rode the new CRF450L.

C7EAC631-A0B5-4DFC-9E7E-AFF4605455B4.jpg

Comparing the 450 to the 250 that I own, it was of course, a more peppy engine. However I was disappointed in how coarse and unrefined this engine was, and it had an abrupt throttle response and idle surging. For a $10,000+ motorcycle, it should have a fuel gauge and a tach, but it does not. I will have no interest in any version of this 450 model.

The wife and I also took another spin on the new GL1800, but for our purposes it has serious shortcomings. We will keep our Gen1 2002 model, thank you.

Maybe tomorrow I’ll ride some CB500 variants!
 
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Well, it wasn’t what did I do with MY NC700 today, but what did I do with Honda’s NC750X. I test rode a new 750 at Honda’s demo ride truck.

View attachment 39003

I found the 750 to be a refinement of the already great NC700X. No, the seat wasn’t any better, and the engine wasn’t any smoother despite the twin balancers, but it was a tad more peppy, and I liked that the low, abrupt rev limiter of the original model was gone. The display, in my opinion, was harder to read than on the first NC models. Overall, what an awesome, user friendly motorcycle!

I also road the new CRF450L.

View attachment 39004

Comparing the 450 to the 250 that I own, it was of course, a more peppy engine. However I was disappointed in how coarse and unrefined this engine was, and it had an abrupt throttle and idle surging. I will have no interest in any version of this 450 model.

The wife and I also took another spin on the new GL1800, but for our purposes it has serious shortcomings. We will keep our Gen1 2002 model, thank you.

Maybe tomorrow I’ll ride some CB500 variants!

Nice to know I’m really not missing anything by not upgrading to a 750. And I totally agree with your assessment of the new GW.

Looking forward to your take on the CB500. I like the way they sit but have yet to score a demo ride on one.
 
Until the NC gets shaft drive, cruise control, a decent 21st century display, and maybe an adjustable decent suspension, I’d have no reason to upgrade to a new model from my 2015. A 19” front wheel would be a plus just to expand the tire selection available, but that’s not a deal killer as I don’t go beyond “groomed” gravel and fire roads.

I’m fine with its current engine and horsepower - I can get to 70-80 mph just fine and faster than any cars around me.


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