• A few people have been scammed on the site, Only use paypal to pay for items for sale by other members. If they will not use paypal, its likely a scam NEVER SEND E-TRANSFERS OF ANY KIND.

Creating a dedicated key for the storage compartment

Showkey, where did you get that headlight knob? I like that design.


That's the headlight power adjust knob for a ST1300. It would fool everyone except a NC owner. I have an "extra" ST1300, that's where the left handle bar switch came from as well. The horn relocation is the motive for trying that switch.....BUT...........I may actually try to make a power wind screen for the NC. I have 70% of the parts for that project.......BUT........the last 30% are not going to be easy.
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Sub in this switch would be the king of fake........( but would solve the horn button location issue)

It would be the king of cool is the power wind screen worked !!!!!!!!:cool::cool::cool:

View attachment 24799


I dunno, the double highbeam, double signal, double horn might be too much to keep up with just to have the FJR EZ-windshield. I'll stick with my Madstad. ;)
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
NO doubles......the ST switch is a little larger scale.......BUT
The ST switch replaces the NC switch. Power wind screen is the ultimate screen........allows one size screen to be perfectly tuned for every possible riding condition. You might think the screen iis set and forget .........I use the adjustment all the time. A little hot drop it down three or Four inches, wind noise buffeting raise it up an inch, 40* and rain up all the way.

I really not sure this will ever happen.
 
Showkey, I think I saw that wrong the first time I looked at it. I thought it was a photoshop gag. After looking again, I see what you were going for. If you can make a motorized shield for the NC, then hats off to ya! That would be pretty sweet! I've adjusted my Madstad almost daily lately (hot, storm, rain and cool mornings). If I could have it change at the button press like the FJR, that would be pretty awesome!
 
I made one of these for the 2015 using a cap from an aerosol can like I did at post #1 of this thread. This time I cut the key down shorter and trimmed the cap down to a lower profile. I think it looks better than the one I made for the 2012.

 
I really hate to ask this, but after reading this and the related threads several times i have to ask ... is the HD109 blank short enough to NOT be able to start the bike, or is it only after you trim it for the knob that it cannot start the bike? Seems some people are using the HD109 blank as an ignition spare key as well. I'm confused.
 
that is what I did to my goldwing. I am going to go by the honda dealership and get another goldwing radio knob. i cut the top off the key, then epoxy the radio knob to the key. I do take a dremel tool and notch the inside of the knob.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I really hate to ask this, but after reading this and the related threads several times i have to ask ... is the HD109 blank short enough to NOT be able to start the bike, or is it only after you trim it for the knob that it cannot start the bike? Seems some people are using the HD109 blank as an ignition spare key as well. I'm confused.
The HD109 blank starts out the same length as the factory OEM key and can fully function as an ignition key. When you cut a portion off the top end of the key and install a knob the key becomes too short to fully insert into the ignition switch so it cannot easily start the bike. Conceivably a thief could take one of our frunk keys and after removing the knob have enough key left to grip with a pair of pliers and start the bike. If this is a risk not willing to take then just remove it and drop it in the frunk when parking the bike.
 
Last edited:
The HD109 blank starts out the same length as the factory OEM key and can fully function as an ignition key. When you cut a portion off the top end of the key and install a knob the key becomes too short to fully insert into the ignition switch so it cannot easily start the bike. Conceivably a thief could take one of our frunk keys and after removing the knob have enough key left to grip with a pair of pliers and start the bike. If this is a risk not willing to take then just remove it and drop it in the frunk when parking the bike.

Thanks very much - that's very clear.
 
First mod I made to the bike...my frunk knob. Found a package of assorted A/C knobs at Auto Zone, $7. Already had he two part epoxy, I think it was $5 at Ace Hardware. Spare key, $3.

IMG_5473.jpg
 
About to try making myself a frunk key.

Picture of the HD109 ignition key, with the HD105 frunk only key and the GL1800 audio nob, we'll see how it goes.

keys.jpg
 
Last edited:
Don't know if this trick will work for the new models. My 2016 key is different, has a ridge through the center of it with no cuts. On either side of this ridge, there is two sets of peaks and valleys.
I'd take a picture, but don't want my key pattern on the net. :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top