I verified the swingarm marks using the alignment tool. They were stamped correctly on my NC. I use the marks only now. I guess some marks on some bike somewhere have been wrong (not necessarily an NC), so verifying them is advised.
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I verified the swingarm marks using the alignment tool. They were stamped correctly on my NC. I use the marks only now. I guess some marks on some bike somewhere have been wrong (not necessarily an NC), so verifying them is advised.
When on the road, all those fancy tools setting at home are useless. Just pull out a knife and count the number of threads on each side. The main thing is to lube the chain more often when on the road. Most of us, check the chain less often when on the road. Seldem needs adjusting, but always needs more lube.
The reason to not trust the marks (nor number of threads sticking out on the adjuster bolts) is not merely whether they're made precisely right and the same as one another. It is also that there is error introduced if/when the swingarm is not built precisely straight and square, and the same for its mounting point on the frame. All those errors are cumulative, and make the obvious and only reasonable way to measure chain alignment (actually sprocket alignment), a straight edge. The Motion Pro tool is very handy and compact, and is a straight edge that will simply and easily align over the top of the chain.
The reason to not trust the marks (nor number of threads sticking out on the adjuster bolts) is not merely whether they're made precisely right and the same as one another. It is also that there is error introduced if/when the swingarm is not built precisely straight and square, and the same for its mounting point on the frame. All those errors are cumulative, and make the obvious and only reasonable way to measure chain alignment (actually sprocket alignment), a straight edge. The Motion Pro tool is very handy and compact, and is a straight edge that will simply and easily align over the top of the chain.
I personally think it's simply a matter of individual choice as to how precise they want to get. For some (me) most things are "meh, close enough" and I don't get overly antsy about "the letter of the law". I'm more a "spirit of the law" kinda guy lol I can hear and feel if my chain is off kilter, or how too tight/not tight enough the rear axle nut is, with a quick spin of the rear wheel, etc. I do not use torque wrenches for anything other than very specific engine rebuilding procedures.
Others, want the exact psi, the exact mm distance left/right/front/rear, or use torque wrenches on fairing bolts etc., and more power to them. I don't think either side should be too hard on the other viewpoint, even if they don't quite agree with it.
The thing about torque wrenches is experience.
I tell my kids to use a torque wrench and then loosen the fastener to feel it. Then tighten it and check it.
I explain they need to know what the materials are. Steel bolt in aluminum? Steel in steel? Steel screw in steel threads through plastic panels?
Some awareness is needed also.
A bit of experience and one can be pretty confident of being pretty darn close.
PS - I almost never use a torque wrench these days for most things.
Another case if we are not going to follow the written directions in the service manual, why buy the manual??
I have known many who thought they could get close to a torque wrench but in verifiable test have never seen any experienced mechanic get close. If you can you are a uniquely talented individual.
Interesting.
I will have to test myself......again.
Remind me of the latest studies on Laryngeal pressure before intubation to prevent gastric reflux and aspiration.
Whelp........now what?
A warning to all with "calibrated" wrists: the NC700 cylinder head cover bolts require much less torque than you might think.
+1 I snapped one