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Who doesn't like the DCT and why?

My go pro is on the front of the bike.
I reached forward to turn it on and my elbow hit the kill switch.
No way to restart without stopping.
Could be dangerous in some traffic situations.

Solution: don't do that.

If you have goofy friends who like to prank you by hitting the kill switch, just have a plan.

As I have noted already, if you hit the kill switch by accident,
do not give gas, or turn off the ignition sw; while still moving, flick the sw to its default position, to restart the engine and move along.
 
My go pro is on the front of the bike.
I reached forward to turn it on and my elbow hit the kill switch.
No way to restart without stopping.
Could be dangerous in some traffic situations.

Solution: don't do that.

If you have goofy friends who like to prank you by hitting the kill switch, just have a plan.
If your engine rpm is still up, ok to turn kill switch back on to restart.
 
If your engine rpm is still up, ok to turn kill switch back on to restart.
Beat you to it. LOL
I am wondering if you could do the same on a manual bike??
Prolly, yes is the answer, but the kill switch is left alone, whereas the DCT will auto downshift what happens with the manual gearbox?
 
Beat you to it. LOL
I am wondering if you could do the same on a manual bike??
Prolly, yes is the answer, but the kill switch is left alone, whereas the DCT will auto downshift what happens with the manual gearbox?

As long as the kill switch is on, side stand is up, and the clutch lever is pulled, a manual bike will restart in any gear at any speed.
 
If your engine rpm is still up, ok to turn kill switch back on to restart.

My 2015 DCT would not restart while moving at highway speed after accidentally hitting the kill switch. It slowed and downshifted until it stopped, and then I could restart.


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I will go test it, but doesn't it have to be in neutral to restart?

Edit:

Ok, ran up and down the driveway a few times.

If I promptly reversed the kill switch the engine seemed to restart, or perhaps it didn't really die.
I didn't have to hit the starter again.

Once a few seconds had passed it wouldn't restart unless I stopped the bike and it went into neutral.

I guess it is possible this is a throttle issue, as suggested above. It seemed more like a time issue.
I tried hitting the switch with no throttle at all and it behaved just the same.
 
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My 2015 DCT would not restart while moving at highway speed after accidentally hitting the kill switch. It slowed and downshifted until it stopped, and then I could restart.


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I don't understand why it did not restart at speed when you flipped the kill switch back ON. I just went for a ride to check out my recollection from experiments done months ago. If I'm in D or S and flip the kill switch off the bike begins to slow down coasting in the last gear selected and eventually downshifts at appropriate speeds. At anytime I flip the kill switch back ON the engine restarts. This is not with the start button - just flipping the kill switch back to ON the engine resumes normal operation. If I slow too much, say to about 20 mph, the transmission shifts from 2nd or 3rd to "no-neutral neutral" (no gear indicated in the dash indicator but the clutch packs are disengaged like when the bike is turned off with the transmission in "1"). If it does this it will not restart until it comes to a complete stop and the speedometer indicates zero.
 
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I don't understand why it did not restart at speed when you flipped the kill switch back ON. I just went for a ride to check out my recollection from experiments done months ago. If I'm in D or S and flip the kill switch off the bike begins to slow down coasting in the last gear selected and eventually downshifts at appropriate speeds. At anytime I flip the kill switch back ON the engine restarts. This is not with the start button - just flipping the kill switch back to ON the engine resumes normal operation. If I slow too much, say to about 20 mph, the transmission shifts from 2nd or 3rd to "no-neutral neutral" (no gear indicated in the dash indicator but the clutch packs are disengaged like when the bike is turned off with the transmission in "1"). If it does this it will not restart until it comes to a complete stop and the speedometer indicates zero.

It could be too much time passed - I did not realize immediately that I hit the kill switch so the bike was slowing as I was trying to figure out wtf was happening. When I did and flipped the kill switch there was no start even hitting the start button.

I'm going to experiment this weekend - my guess is that it's a timing thing.


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Also I was experimenting at low speed and perhaps it reached the "no neutral" state quickly st low speed.
 
things I don't like about the DCT on my bike:
- sometimes it shifts in mid-corner
- sometimes it lugs the engine in 1st or 2nd instead of using a bit more clutch
- downshifts under hard braking can be a bit dicey

AFAIK the first two are solved/alleviated with the newer models but the last one is probably still there, I mean the last models don't have a ride-by-wire throttle yet do they? No ride-by-wire means no blipping on downshifts, meaning rougher downshifts when braking hard in S mode, as several other members have already mentioned. The africa twin doesn't have ride-by-wire either so I assume the DCT on those bikes has the same problem
 
I've stated this on another thread.
Because I use my DCT in toggle (manual) shift mode exclusively and to simplify the DCT system, I'd prefer Honda eliminating the Auto and Sport mode functions entirely.
But it looks like the 2017 will have 3 Sport mode settings. So there goes the system simplicity.
The current XD in manual mode functions like the X, is easier to operate and auto downshifts.
 
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I've stated this on another thread.
Because I use my DCT in toggle (manual) shift mode exclusively and to simplify the DCT system, I'd prefer Honda eliminating the Auto and Sport mode functions entirely.
But it looks like the 2017 will have 3 Sport mode settings. So there goes the system simplicity.
The current XD in manual mode functions like the X, is easier to operate and auto downshifts.

Mad though that sounds Fred, I think you do have a point. It would be a major plus if Honda allowed their dealers to configure the DCT system to suit the customer. That could include:
Disabling one or more modes
Reprogramming the default start-up mode (instead of it being D-mode)
Disabling certain switches (maybe the down paddle if a rider keeps pressing it by mistake)
and for me - reprogramming the A-M switch to be a D-S switch (which would be much easier to reach for overtaking)
Dealers could charge £30 or £40 for reprogramming.
Mike
 
The 2016-2017 NC750s' have LED head/tail light assemblies. The 2016 NC700s' have halogen headlight and perhaps LED tail lights.
I haven't been able find what the 2017 NC700 headlight is, but one (hopefully incorrect) 360 view on the power sports page appears to be Halogen.
 
The 2016-2017 NC750s' have LED head/tail light assemblies. The 2016 NC700s' have halogen headlight and perhaps LED tail lights.
I haven't been able find what the 2017 NC700 headlight is, but one (hopefully incorrect) 360 view on the power sports page appears to be Halogen.

Be careful with observations of the Honda web site. Quite often you'll see tiny words in the corner that state "Prior year model shown." On rare occasions they have been known to omit the little note.
 
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Conversion to LED headlighting would be a big enough deal for Honda to try and get a little press about it just as it was last year when such upgraded lighting and suspension appeared on 2016 NCs in certain markets. Honda said nothing about lighting updates to this line for 2017. I wouldn't expect there is any changes other than colors.
 
Going a little off topic here, Acura runs LED headlights on all their vehicles for several years now; my 2014 Accord has LEDs. The 2017 CRV has Acura style LEDs up front.
It looks like all the bells and whistles on the 750s' for 2017 that Honda highlights are the same for the 700.......except for the headlight. I'll bet the Euro assembly would bolt right up to the 700....huh!
 
It looks like all the bells and whistles on the 750s' for 2017 that Honda highlights are the same for the 700.......except for the headlight. I'll bet the Euro assembly would bolt right up to the 700....huh!

We talked about an OEM LED retrofit in the past. I don't know pricing for the non-U.S. NC700X models, but as a point of reference, the U.S. model NM4 OEM LED headlight lists for approximately $1000.

Here is the thread: http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-technical/10736-will-2016-led-headlight-fit-older-models.html
 
It looks like all the bells and whistles on the 750s' for 2017 that Honda highlights are the same for the 700.......except for the headlight. I'll bet the Euro assembly would bolt right up to the 700....huh!

We talked about an OEM LED retrofit in the past. I don't know pricing for the non-U.S. NC700X models, but as a point of reference, the U.S. model NM4 OEM LED headlight lists for $1009.78.

Here is the thread: http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-technical/10736-will-2016-led-headlight-fit-older-models.html
 
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