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2016: What did you do to/with your NC700 today?

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Sorry, my reply was to the question about cutting the plastic for the luggage rack.
 
I checked the valves last night. 14,000 miles is a little early but I knew my 2012 needed adjustments at 8,000 and 14,000 so checking them had been on my mind for several thousand miles. I was pleased to find 7 of 8 at the high side or middle of tolerance and only 1 exhaust valve at the limit of tolerance. I moved that one to the middle of specification and buttoned everything up. This thing is so easy to maintain!!!!!
 
I finished wiring the Scorpio i900R alarm system. There's plenty of room for such things (and more) in the tail section of the 2016 that holds the LED brake/running light, plus convenient places to tap for ignition and ground and the turn signal lights (which I didn't connect the alarm to.) The only hard part is running a 12 volt line from the battery which required plastic removal.

Unfortunately I think the alarm's remote is dead-dead. After days of being plugged in, it won't charge beyond a single bar and defaults to RFID-Only mode. Gotta call Scorpio sometime.

It's still pretty neat. I hung the alarm wire vertical out the back section. I had to extend the wiring for the RFID sensor and put it and the proximity sensor right above the gas tank under the seat. Manual says not to put it by metal, but don't really have a choice here. Both work fine. I dialed the proximity sensor down to it's minimal setting, so you pretty much have to stand right next to the bike to set it off. Anyone checking it out that closely is going to get a surprise! :)
 
I checked the valves last night. 14,000 miles is a little early but I knew my 2012 needed adjustments at 8,000 and 14,000 so checking them had been on my mind for several thousand miles. I was pleased to find 7 of 8 at the high side or middle of tolerance and only 1 exhaust valve at the limit of tolerance. I moved that one to the middle of specification and buttoned everything up. This thing is so easy to maintain!!!!!

I guess I should have a look at mine this summer since it has almost 34,000 miles on it !!.
 
I am waiting while they do the 600 mile checkup.
Hopefully they will also have time to add:
Aux lights
SWmotech skid plate
HAndle bar riser
 
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After a solid week on charge, I took apart my Scorpio 900 fob to see how it works and get direct battery access so I could test/charge it directly with some equipment I have for lithium battery conditioning.

The little lithium battery is dead and won't charge to more than 3.5v which is too low to transmit. I ordered another one from Scorpio.

So I can't ride until it gets here... NOT!

The charger puts out 9.5V, says 6V on the side and has a 3.7V battery in it. I wired up a lithium disposable 9V and taped it up real professional like until the new one gets here:

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I let the lithium die by not always charging the remote and it fell too low to recover and sausage itself... Oops.
 
cussed mine a lot. When removing the bottom engine mount bolt it started to come out and then it snapped. Drilled the bolt out, put the EZ out in and promptly snapped that off in the bolt. Fought with that for awhile, got the EZ out tip out and drilled completely through the bolt, started to step the hole up but broke my drill bit. Tried using another EZ out but nothing is budging. I have a feeling I'll be drilling and tapping soon.
 
cussed mine a lot. When removing the bottom engine mount bolt it started to come out and then it snapped. Drilled the bolt out, put the EZ out in and promptly snapped that off in the bolt. Fought with that for awhile, got the EZ out tip out and drilled completely through the bolt, started to step the hole up but broke my drill bit. Tried using another EZ out but nothing is budging. I have a feeling I'll be drilling and tapping soon.

Oh man that sucks! One trick I try with stubborn bolts is to heat them up (or heat the end of whatever you can tap into them) Then apply cold with an upside down air duster can.... Different metals expand and contract differently with heat/cold and it may break the bolt loose.
 
I rode 800 miles today from Bueno vista co. To Dfw taking some scenic tours. I did it on shinko 705s, I will never do that again. Got some pr4s in my garage waiting to install.

My mileage ranged from 65mpg to 35mpg. The lower number was in a 30 mph cross and head wind doing 80 mph in 4th gear. Dct was the bomb, if I had manual I would have worn out the clutch lol


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After the 600 mile service I rode home, about 95 miles each way. That is my longest one day ride.
 
cussed mine a lot. When removing the bottom engine mount bolt it started to come out and then it snapped. Drilled the bolt out, put the EZ out in and promptly snapped that off in the bolt. Fought with that for awhile, got the EZ out tip out and drilled completely through the bolt, started to step the hole up but broke my drill bit. Tried using another EZ out but nothing is budging. I have a feeling I'll be drilling and tapping soon.
wow that's crazy, I hope it got worked out
 
Dropped the bike for the first time. Parked on a slope and the bike was pretty upright with the kick stand down. When i jumped back on it the suspension compressed but the side stand did not... over it went. No damage and nobody was watching. I also know know these bikes are a piece of cake to lift back up.

Also at 17800 km my stock rear tire is finally at the wear marks. New tires should be here in a week.
 
Dropped the bike for the first time. No damage and nobody was watching.

Well then, didn't happen!

Today after work I rode out 100 miles to the Kettle Moraine State Forest for some twisty curves and generally getting lost in the middle of farm country until gas gets low. I meant to be home before dark, but I had to ride around till my phone got a signal, and if I saw a twisty road sign, I went there.

There was a huge thunderstorm between me and the way home, luckily I brought the Goretex over shells and gloves (in the frunk), pulled over and put them on. Ignored the phone GPS and rode south trying to beat the storm on the Interstate (80mph) and crosswinds that would blow the bike from one edge of my lane to the other. No dice, hit a slow construction zone (0-10 mph) and the storm overtook... So the bike got a wash.

Rode 100 miles home in the driving rain in the dark. Couldn't see, gonna need rainx or something next time. Met a trio of Harley bagger riders from Minnesota heading to Milwaukee at a gas station and traded weather reports. I got a box of donuts and two 1L bottles of Pepsi and they were curious as to where I was going to put it...
Confusion sets in... So then where do you put the gas!? I didn't mention the DCT...

At home the bike was looking nice and clean, bugs all washed off, no dirt, so I dropped the skid plate and wiped everything clean. Found a nice dragonfly carcass wedged in there:

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After everything was dry and clean, I treated the entire bike undersides and exposed metal parts with ACF-50. Fun day!
 
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...Rode 100 miles home in the driving rain in the dark. Couldn't see, gonna need rainx or something next time...

Careful with the Rain-X, Madstad recommends against it on their shields but your helmet visor might be just fine with it.
 
So, after 3 days, two broken drill bits, a broken EZ out, a few choice words, I got the broken bolt out without destroying the threads.



and finished the SW-motech crash bars.

 
Careful with the Rain-X, Madstad recommends against it on their shields but your helmet visor might be just fine with it.
I think madstad is against it because it leaves a film, you can't tell for awhile but I used the 2 in 1 rain-x on my visor and it left a film that is very hard to remove. If rain-x doesn't work, is there something that does work on plastic?
 
I think madstad is against it because it leaves a film, you can't tell for awhile but I used the 2 in 1 rain-x on my visor and it left a film that is very hard to remove. If rain-x doesn't work, is there something that does work on plastic?

From the Madstad website FAQ...

Q: What should I use to clean my MADSTAD windshield?

You can use just about any standard windshield cleaner on our cast acrylic shields, but avoid any product that contains alcohol. To remove sticky bugs and tar we've used orange-oil based cleaners like Goo-Gone, Citrus Cleaner or similar, and Meguiar's PlastX which both cleans and polishes out light scratches. You can get that stuff at most auto parts stores like Advance Auto Parts or AutoZone (in the car polishes section). After cleaning, if you want the ultimate shine we would recommend All Kleer as the final step (the version made for motorcycles).

ANTI-RAIN: Rain-X is NOT recommended for use on our shields because it contains alcohol. There is another product called RejeX Polymer Sealant that is recommended for acrylics, so use that instead. It is available online.
 
Too bad about the hassle. Looks like exactly 1 thread in the case completely welded itself to that bolt and stuck it tight. New bolt _should_ be okay just skipping past that 'blank' section in the case, right?

Should be, the new bolt went right in without any drama. I'll just have to keep an eye on it.
 
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